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ttangel
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Posted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 9:40 am |
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 2:25 pm Posts: 2502 Location: Green Bay
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For the love of god. please people. think.
That is really all I ask before you do a modification to your car. Think.
I've started working on another car, and some of the stuff that you can find on a car from a previous owner is just absolutely amazing.
I'm not trying to bash on anyone here. I'm really not. I'm posting this up because I feel a forum is a good place to share information about cars, and hopefully if you want to modify your car, a place to learn the more socially acceptable and "correct" ways to do it.
I understood when I bought this car that the original owner didn't understand much about cars, but did some slight modifications anyway.
So this is who I'm posting to. Those people that don't really know much about cars, and want to start modding them.
Also, keep in mid that most of the time this is EASY stuff to fix or maintain. That's why it's so annoying to see people attempt to take an "easier way out."
1st pet peeve:
No matter how much electrical tape you wrap around a tee, it will not keep it from leaking air. Vacuum or pressure (boost) will find a way through that stuff. It's tape. If you wouldn't fix your leaking boat with it before making a trip across lake michigan, then don't use it on your car's pressurized intake track.
If you have no use for that outlet on the tee, get a plug. They are avalible at any autoparts store. Or, get rid of the tee. You can replace two lengths of vacuum line that were there with one length. No one will yell at you.
2nd pet peeve:
No wire nuts. I hear some of you saying, "but Adam..." Stop. I'm cutting you off right there. No. Just no. ah ah ah! NO! Wire nuts are for use in the home. hidden behind drywall. why? because houses don't bounce down the road at 65 miles an hour. They don't go shooting over bumps. There is a lot less chance of a wire vibrating loose in a wall, and if it does, well, you don't have to be upside down in the drivers seat under the dash trying to fix it.
Butt connectors. They are easy enough to use. Insert wire, pinch tube on either side, and it won't pull out.
Or solder. But I understand. Some of you are not allowed to play with hot things. Hell, I wasn't allowed to play with scissors until I was twenty one.
3rd pet peeve:
DON'T JUST DRILL A HOLE IN THE FIRE WALL!
Let me calm down a bit, and take a breath here...
For the love off all that is holy, why would you do that?
First off. The firewall is there for your safety. approximately four feet in front of you is a mass of metal that routinely ignites vaporized fuel into an explosive force. We knowingly feed that mass of metal (called an engine) fuel to keep it going, and try and harness it's power to move us around to get from place to place in our daily lives. Yet, accidents happen, rare though they may be, and if something were to happen to that fuel line, there are plenty of ignition sources in the engine bay, and the only thing standing between YOU AND A CLOSED CASKET FUNERAL REAKING OF BURNT FLESH is that peice of metal we engineers have so aptly named a fire wall.
Not to mention, there are two holes in the firewall already. One on the driver's side, and the other on the passenger side right behind the battery. You can use those. As I often tell my wife, one hole is just as good as another. You don't see me stabbing her and having sex with the wound because I was bored with her "stock" ones do you? NO.
And now, to bring it full circle, I can fix a tee wrapped in electrical tape relatively easily. As can I fix some "interesting wiring."
A hole just ramrodded through the firewall is not as easy to fix. Just not that easy to repair your three second decision of "That hole looks good there."
So... what do I want you good readers to take away from this rant?
Take your time. Think about what it will take. Then, do it right the first time, and it won't have to get redone later.
If you don't know how, ask. If you want it done right, and don't know the difference between a screw driver and a bus driver, take it to a friend's house, or a shop.
Anywho.
Oh, also, I don't want the readers to think that I never did any of this stuff. I did. I had a 90 ford probe that I destroyed with my idiocy... but it was just a probe. And I tried to limit the amounts of metal that I f'd up because I knew that was hard to fix.
Hell, I put neon underbodies on my car. That's plenty stupid. But I did it in a way that they could be removed by the next owner if they so choose without leaving perminent marks.
Dr. Cox, MD
_________________ Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!
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ron/mon
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Posted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 8:04 pm |
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Joined: Mon Mar 06, 2006 8:13 pm Posts: 97 Location: Burlington
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G-ELL
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Posted: Wed Oct 28, 2009 9:49 am |
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 1:18 am Posts: 3153 Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
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Got a few to add to this...
Easy outs: It happens to us strong forearm guys, we over tighten bolts to the point of it snapping. Now just because you twisted the head off doesn't mean it's difficult to repair. Generally, you can just remove the part you were bolting on and there is enough of the bolt left sticking up where you can just unscrew it with your fingers. If not, no biggie, just grab the easy-out. That's what it's fore. You have the broken shaft out in less than 5 min.
It also happens where your dumbass cross threads a bolt or there's some bugger on it which interferes with the bolt threading in and you're not smart enough to back the bolt off before it breaks the head off. Easy outs generally are not good for fixing these. You can try but chances are you're going to break the easy out into the bolt your dumbass cross threaded.
When that happens, it doesn't mean you say "fuck it" and leave it there. No, you need to get some drilling oil and a few bits and chop it away.
I don't like doing this. Inspecting a bolt before you install it is 10x easiser than making me do this shit. You can even put a little antisieze on the bolt if it's a little rusty or run a tap and die thru it just to clean out any burrs. Would you shove your dick into a dry hole? No, you put a little lube on it. Feels 10x better.
More later when I get time!
_________________ 06 Blue EVO 9

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a2j
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Posted: Wed Oct 28, 2009 11:07 pm |
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Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 11:34 pm Posts: 349 Location: Wrightstown
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how about drilling a hole in the engine to run an oil line to the turbo? 
_________________ From Brixton Prison, Jebb Avenue London S.W. 2 Inglan
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2004formula
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Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 2:04 am |
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Joined: Wed Nov 21, 2007 10:08 pm Posts: 204
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a2j wrote: how about drilling a hole in the engine to run an oil line to the turbo?  there was an ad on craigslist recently where someone did just that...to an eclipse i believe?
_________________ 
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ttangel
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Posted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:27 pm |
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 2:25 pm Posts: 2502 Location: Green Bay
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Don't cut axial cables to run your turbo timer off from...
I'll add that one to the pot...
This car is like a bad girlfriend. The deeper you get in her, the more daddy issues you have to work through...
It seems to be holding a steady 10 pounds of boost, now... So I guess that's good.
Can't seem to get the driver's side door to work with the key... I guess I'll have to pull all that stuff out and see what's going on.
Anyone know how much it is to have a key cut via a VIN number? I don't think I want to make a second key off from the one I have, it's pretty worn.
Woot Woot.
_________________ Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!
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MRink
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Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 4:46 pm |
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Joined: Sun Oct 03, 2004 2:08 pm Posts: 521 Location: Wind Lake, WI
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ttangel wrote: Anyone know how much it is to have a key cut via a VIN number? I don't think I want to make a second key off from the one I have, it's pretty worn.
I believe it was somewhere in the neighborhood of $8-$14 per key for me last fall.
_________________ "Well-weathered leather, hot metal and oil, the scented country air,
Sunlight on chrome, the blur of the landscape, every nerve aware..."
meastie beastie
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G-ELL
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Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 6:40 pm |
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 1:18 am Posts: 3153 Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
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The car is a 94 right? I might have another 2 button keyless remote.
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TT4ME
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Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 8:50 pm |
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Joined: Sat Oct 13, 2007 10:28 pm Posts: 215 Location: Manitowoc
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Try some WD40 in that key hole. Worked for me!
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ttangel
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Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 9:37 am |
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 2:25 pm Posts: 2502 Location: Green Bay
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G-ELL wrote: The car is a 94 right? I might have another 2 button keyless remote. REALLY?!? I'll pay pal you right now if this is the case. A
_________________ Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!
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ttangel
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Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 9:39 am |
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 2:25 pm Posts: 2502 Location: Green Bay
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TT4ME wrote: Try some WD40 in that key hole. Worked for me! I have been using some lock thaw. It worked on the trunk of my stealth a few years ago when it seezed up. It also worked on the trunk and passenger side of the 3000gt when I got it back to the garage. How do you figure the previous owners got in and out with no keyless remote, and no working locks? I will try the WD40 thing tonight...
_________________ Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!
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ttangel
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Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 9:39 am |
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 2:25 pm Posts: 2502 Location: Green Bay
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MRink wrote: ttangel wrote: Anyone know how much it is to have a key cut via a VIN number? I don't think I want to make a second key off from the one I have, it's pretty worn.
I believe it was somewhere in the neighborhood of $8-$14 per key for me last fall. who did you get the key from? thanks!
_________________ Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!
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ron/mon
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Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 7:44 pm |
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Joined: Mon Mar 06, 2006 8:13 pm Posts: 97 Location: Burlington
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I paid about $12.00 for the key and cut from Pocaro Mitsubishi in Racine last year. Talk to Rick in parts.
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MRink
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Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 12:24 pm |
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Joined: Sun Oct 03, 2004 2:08 pm Posts: 521 Location: Wind Lake, WI
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ttangel wrote: MRink wrote: ttangel wrote: Anyone know how much it is to have a key cut via a VIN number? I don't think I want to make a second key off from the one I have, it's pretty worn.
I believe it was somewhere in the neighborhood of $8-$14 per key for me last fall. who did you get the key from? thanks! My local Mitsu dealer in Milwaukee on Hwy 100. It used to be Renner, but I think now it might be different and/or moved locations. I can't keep up.
_________________ "Well-weathered leather, hot metal and oil, the scented country air,
Sunlight on chrome, the blur of the landscape, every nerve aware..."
meastie beastie
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jeettao
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Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 5:33 pm |
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Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 8:37 pm Posts: 236
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ron/mon wrote: I paid about $12.00 for the key and cut from Pocaro Mitsubishi in Racine last year. Talk to Rick in parts. Damn. I got ripped off. I paid close to 30 after taxes.
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