Ok, so last night I got off my dead ass and worked on my car. I fixed all the vacuum leaks up to 9 lbs. (I just want to get the car idleing and able to run to the new house.) that should clear the low setting on my boost controller anyway.

I then unhooked the battery and let it sit. Started it up and it idled at about 750 Rpm and was really chopy. I noticed that the E-manage threw an error code right away followed by the check engine light coming on. Hmm. boo that. what's up with this... check the light... airflow signal. I'm a dumbass... walk around to the front, plug in MAS.

turn key fires up and settles at 1400 rpm, searching again. So like Greg said it's probably running really rich. So I played with the fuel ratio, and finally settled on about -25% my injector duty cycles are back to 1% and it seems to still search, but only about 100 rpm. So it goes from about 770 - about 825. I didn't think that was to bad. the O2 sensors are telling me I'm running .02 at an idle sometimes up to .04 when I blip the throttle. hmm.

Also I have -25 percent in the first four cells in the corner of the e-manage. I guess I just kinda extended those values out down and to the right slowly droping the value.

So that is were I stopped for two reasons. I have it idling decent, and I have realised that I have no flipping idea how to procede from here. I'm not even sure if what I have done is correct.

Head out and do runs? look for knock and O2 readings? I've got my feelers out for a used greddy EGT gauge. hopefully that will pan out. I'd get the WBO2, but I have to buy a refridgerator. appearently beef jerky and rameon noodles aren't enough to live on in a new house...

Oh, and Greg, Jeff, she ran on all six thumbs up!

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Of coarse not you need beer also
and maybe some nachos.

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'94 vr4- Now with extra slowness

I have neighbors for cold beer. right Brett?

And nachos come from the T-bell.

need help with tuning though. thought the o2's were suppose to cycle when idling. I need to learn more about this process in general. I also need a WB02, EGT, and fuel pressure gauge. (the last one just cause I want it, but I'm fussy and want an electric one to mount in the glove box.)

does idle read airflow? or 02 cycles? or both?

when you make changes you have to let it sit a while and adjust right? how long is long enough?

Should I be messing with the BISS screw to adjust the idle at all?

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Matt, the last time I had talked you had mentioned E-manage and the boost sensor out put voltage to make your own sensor. I was cruisin various E-manage sites and came acrossed it. here it is...

The voltage map: (off emanage yahoo group)
psi voltage
-14 0.54
-13 0.6
-12 0.67
-11 0.74
-10 0.81
-9 0.88
-8 0.95
-7 1.02
-6 1.09
-5 1.16
-4 1.22
-3 1.29
-2 1.36
-1 1.43
0 1.5
1 1.57
2 1.64
3 1.71
4 1.78
5 1.84
6 1.91
7 1.98
8 2.05
9 2.12
10 2.19
11 2.26
12 2.33
13 2.4
14 2.46
15 2.53
16 2.6
17 2.67
18 2.74
19 2.81
20 2.88
21 2.95
22 3.02
23 3.09
24 3.15
25 3.22
26 3.29
27 3.36
28 3.43
29 3.5
30 3.57
31 3.64
32 3.71
33 3.77
34 3.84
35 3.91
36 3.98
37 4.05
38 4.12
39 4.19
40 4.26
41 4.33
42 4.39
43 4.46

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Let's get together some time soon and get'er figured out.

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06 Blue EVO 9

I'd be up for that. This weekend is shot, and I have to do a wedding next weekend. I'm not sure about your work schedule, but mine stays fairly full during the week. I think that puts us off until after the 11th... I'll have to check on the EGT and see with hell is up with that.

Or... maybe I can borrow my uncles WBO2 from his dyno... I think I might have to yoink it for a day or two when you want to tune this thing up...

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Greg, if the car isn't knocking on accel(with decent nb o2s) and the nb o2's are kinda cycling would it be good enough to bring it down by you? I hate to make you drive up here all the time. Especially since I don't have another bed now unless I send you back to my parent's house.

I got the 3SX block off plates. They upgraded me to the "logoed" version for free cause they were out of stock on the non-logoed version.

Now, the nipples that were running there get plugged off, I'm assuming. correct?

Also got speed bleeders for my brakes to help with changing the brake lines out.

Dave called me last night, as I mailed him a couple fuel pump relays that I had laying around. he said he had 50 miles on his car and no stutter. SWEET. he said that the relay that he took out of that rubber booty was all corroded up, and the contacts weren't so good anymore. So before you go to bed tonight say a prayer that the relay was his actual problem, and it's not just masking it again.

Then I talked to him on phone for another half an hour. He's a cool guy. I heard through the grape vine that some one was talking trash about his mustang at the gathering in the dells. I hope they were from MN, and not WI. Or you'll have a skinny white boy to deal with.

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If you're comfortable driving down, then sure. Don't drive it all the way here puffing black smoke though.

Yes, cap the 2 extra nipples on the throttle body. On that note, I've recently discovered the DOHC NA and TT TB's are the same inner diameter. The OBD1 NA cars only had 1 nipple on them. See where I'm going with this? It would make a really clean vac reduction.

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06 Blue EVO 9

no I don't get it... wait, yup... nope, lost it again.

I'll have to look into that at a later date. I want steering wheel controls and a egt/wbo2 worse right now.

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[quote="ttangel"]Dave called me last night, as I mailed him a couple fuel pump relays that I had laying around. he said he had 50 miles on his car and no stutter. quote]
I was sure that was his problem when the same thing happend to me on the way home from the Dells. Since I swapped relays I haven't had a problem.

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'94 vr4- Now with extra slowness

Ok, so after I brought the stealth to it's new spot to leak oil, and started on swapping fuel pumps. I've been spraying all the connections down with PB blaster and WD40 on a regular basis.

The little 8mm nuts came off like butter. I think I'll replace them though, as there all rusty. The line is proving to be more of a bastard. I torque on the connection right by the pump, and it just didn't move. I think I could actually here it laughing... So then I moved down to the lower connection,(by the front of the tank) but then I had to give up for the night due to house guests. BOO.

So, what I want to know, is I torqued on that upper connection, and the line coming out of the tank is so deteriorated that it just started to flake the surface off. I don't like that personally. Can I replace the whole shit to the lower connection with an Earl's fitting or something? Also, those little black plugs that the wire runs through, can I pop those out to rewire stuff in there?

How fussy is this pump thing? Do I need any new O-rings that I should have bought already?

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I'm not surprised. You'll probably end up braking that hard line getting it off. There is also a large ring that goes around the top edge between the fuel pump assembly and the tank.

Well, I went ahead and pulled my fuel pump. The easy way... I twisted the shit out of the hard line coming out of the top of the fuel pump.

Now before everyone jumps down my throat and starts harping on the connection on the front of the tank, hear me out.

The whole cover is a bit "weathered" including the line. The tank looks pretty nice, as does the line running foward from there. But I just didn't like the line coming out of the tank. It started to flake apart as soon as I touched it. So I said F*** it, and twisted the crap out of it. turned it into a rather nice peice of abstract art, I think. I did this with the plan of replacing the fuel line up through the top with a bulk head fitting. Then I would just replace the line as needed and replace the fittings as needed to get back onto the stock line.

So I now hold the assembly in my hands. I brought it out by my uncles and showed him what was up, and what I wanted to do. He pretty much told me that it was a japanese peice of shit and he won't work on it. (I love domestic guys... screw carburetors... there I said it. Screw Carburetors.)

His reasoning was that a bulk head fitting would not seal on the fuel tank "cap." His second idea (which he also did not want to do) was weld a new line in place of the old one. He said that this way was to hard...

Both him and my two cousins (Greg you remember Craig right?) told me to "go buy a new slanty eye pump assembly."

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I concur.

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06 Blue EVO 9

I can make a pretty kick ass pump assembly with a bunch of obscure fittings for 550 bucks. (they don't sell just the mounting plate/ pump assembly. you need the whole shit along with the pump, level detector, blah blah blah.) Then I will not have this kinking the line problem any more either.

I just find it hard to believe that the only answer to this problem is "buy a new one." It may be the fastest, and maybe pretty easy. I highly doubt it's the best.

I find it increadibly hard to believe that no one else has been down this road before and couldn't get some bulk head fittings to seal up.

I'm also pretty god damned stubborn when push comes to shove, also... So I'll probably have to build something just to prove to my uncle that it can be done.

Besides, it's just gas. And I have duct tape. wtf could go wrong?

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