Can't remember, did you say you drove the car a good distance (swtiching gears often) with the broken line? I almost wonder if you bent/warped a linkage or something in the tranny.

Tighten the shifter cables, and adjust the clutch so it grabs farther off the floor. Make sure when you're driving you're pushing the clutch ALL THE WAY to the floor.

Can you hear your tranny "spin up" when you put the car into 1st (with the clutch in of coarse) while moving < 5mph?

I never really listened to the tranny, im gonna wait till tommorrow to mess with the car some more, But if i have to ill pull the tranny Oh well, maybe its time for a findanza flywheel Also when the line broke, it happened instantly but it is a good possiabilty that i have a bent rod or something....BTW is the slave cylinder suppose to take about 2 to 3 seconds to move that fork out on the tranny?? Cause it seems to slow, maybe something in the clutch is messed up.

Ill find out sooner or later....Any instructions on tranny pulling somewhere
Jeff L. website?......im about to head out to a party so ill look tommorrow too......

later brian

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1992 RT/TT Black.......lots of goodies.

No. It should move in and out (almost) instantly with the clutch pedal. Just like brake pistons.

So thats gotta be the problem then, Is the clutch master cylinder related to that in some way??.......as far as the moving in and out of the fork??

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1992 RT/TT Black.......lots of goodies.

Well, i found out that my clutch is shot and also im gonna get a new flywheel, as far as the grinding goes, my throw out bearing wasnt moving bery smoothly on the shaft, i still think its a shot in the dark but the clutch is bad anyways.

Any clutch, flywheel combos that you guys would recommend for me?
It would be helpful.

Thanks brian

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1992 RT/TT Black.......lots of goodies.

I think it depends on your application Brian. If you don't forsee much track time or racing from a stop, a stock clutch should hold up fine. Mine has lasted over 35 HARD launches between the street and strip (and several nasty clutch burning smells). Your car is making more power than mine though so a mild upgrade might be worthwhile. Just don't underestimate the stock clutch as far as reliability if you treat it right... and the price is good too.

You can check with Vetting on the SBC clutch he has. It's supposed to be a mild upgrade over the stock clutch for a decent price. If you're looking for somethign that will regularly hold up to some pounding with heavy power, I'm the wrong person to ask.

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Best in Show - NG07
2010 - 6G74/3.5L E16Gs - 688awhp/679awtq (Race+Meth)
2011 - 6G74/3.5L 68HTAs - 740awhp/762awtq (Race+Meth)
2013 - 6G74/3.5L MTC Stage4 - 908awhp/832awtq (Race+Meth)

I ordered a RPS flywheel and a spec stage 3 clutch through 3sx, i hope this is a good combo, now my carrier bushings are shot for the drive shaft so im gonna order a carbon fiber one, where did you get yours??(cfds) Also do you still need to install the carrier bearings with the driveshaft??

Brian

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1992 RT/TT Black.......lots of goodies.

You will hate it. That's the "puck" design right? Heavy pressure plate, doesn't slip very well (not the best for street driving), and doesn't last long. Pretty much overkill for a 95% street car. Eric (unclebenny) has one installed in his car. You should ask him to let you drive his car sometime. I tried a "puck" clutch in one of my DSMs and hated it. Didn't last longer than 8K. You'll hear/read lots of other people experiencing the same thing.

So you ended up pulling the tranny? Was I right, did the springs wear threw the disk? If that's the case, then all you need is a new disk. You can buy just clutch disks from manufacturers, or a stock one (cheeper) will do just fine. They don't cost more than $150.

Yes, you can use a stock clutch disk with an upgraded pressure plate. This is an old DSMers trick to save $$. Guys have also found the stock disks to be better quality than many of the aftermarket disks out there. In fact, after hearing about your experience with the RPS, I may consider a stock one along with an RPS flywheel.

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06 Blue EVO 9

Well, im gonna give it a shot anyways and see, my pedal was hard as hell to push it in the first place and didnt slip very easily. I dont even think it was an rps that was in there to start out with, but it musta been something aftermarket because of the pressure on the pedal, it was like pushing in on an old manual clutch.....very stiff. Trial and error....lol an expensive one

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1992 RT/TT Black.......lots of goodies.

Are you comming to my party this weekend? Bring the old one with you. I can tell you by looking at it.

What color is the pressure plate? If it's yellow, then it's an ACT, blue is probably RPS, black is probably stock. They usually etch/paint the brand right onto the back of the pressure plate.

What shape is the disk? Circular or does it look like a flower?

It might have been heavy too because the clutch vac assist wasn't hooked up/leaking. There is a line that comes from the brake booster behind the brake master cylender, and goes to the tranny. That's the hard line that runs between your battery + y-pipe.

[/quote]

Are you comming to my party this weekend? Bring the old one with you. I can tell you by looking at it.

What color is the pressure plate? If it's yellow, then it's an ACT, blue is probably RPS, black is probably stock. They usually etch/paint the brand right onto the back of the pressure plate.

What shape is the disk? Circular or does it look like a flower?

It might have been heavy too because the clutch vac assist wasn't hooked up/leaking. There is a line that comes from the brake booster behind the brake master cylender, and goes to the tranny. That's the hard line that runs between your battery + y-pipe.[/quote]


Its a stock one i believe, i gotta work days all weekand 6 to 6. So i cant make it, i would if i had off though. The disk is not a 6 puck, just normal shaped. Im planning on getting a CFDS for it. Do you know if the carrier bearings gotta be used with a one piece?

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1992 RT/TT Black.......lots of goodies.

Ah, if it's stock, then maybe it just died of age + horse power. Read from other peoples experience that the stock clutch (and pressure plate) doesn't do well past 400hp.

Believe the 1 piece eliminates the carrier bearrings all together.

Do a search in the forums about Jesse's (and others) experience with the 1 piece. Think you will find many people who say the 1 piece isn't the way to go for a street car because of vibrations. I've never owned one, so I can't comment.

I check out some posts and i guess the vibration issue with the one piece is resolved. But also stated was theres always a possiablty like what jesse had with vibration, im gonna take my chances with a one piece and see what happenes.

I just hope i can get all the parts and everything back together before the dells gathering!!!

Brian

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1992 RT/TT Black.......lots of goodies.

Just a little update on everything that im doing here.....

Carrier bearings are shot, so i got a 1 piece CFDS comming(hopefully no vibrations).

Clutch is worn out, Got a rps flywheel comming and spec 3 clutch.

My tranny is a 25 spine. So im getting a new output shaft and all the seals replaced and the tranny syncro's are bad for 2nd and 3rd so thats getting replaced. Basicly a minor rebuild on tranny.

So after this is all said and done, i hope i have no issues with the car for a while!! No more launches till next summer........lol


Damn, im glad i work 2 jobs!!

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1992 RT/TT Black.......lots of goodies.

I changed my mind and went with a spec II clutch

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1992 RT/TT Black.......lots of goodies.