Tools:
breaker bar
17 mm socket
18 mm socket
12 mm socket
1/2" drive socket wrench
3/8" drive socket wrench
(3) cans brake cleaner
T30 star bit
Impact socket driver
Fairly large hammer
5 lb rubber deadblow mallet
10 lb steel maul w/ "long throw arm"
Torch
Start out by loosening lug studs (17 mm) with breaker bar. Jack up car. remove lug studs. Kick the ever living crap out of the sidewall of your tire to break the rim loose from the rotor. watch out, as MBs don't have lug nuts, and studs, they have lug studs. which means that tire is gonna be flying off at you like a cat you just... nevermind.
with tire off, remove two 12 mm bolts from back of caliper, and remove peice 1 of caliper, along with brake pads. Note, the sliders are completely internal to this peice, so if you have un-even brake pad wear, you need a new assembly.
remove two 18 mm bolts from caliper assembly. may have to whack driver with 5 lb deadblow to loosen. shouldn't be to bad.
Remove caliper from rotor, and tie out of the way. Tie out of the way well, or two steps from now it will fall on you. Trust me.
Remove screw from rotor holding it to wheel hub. it's suppose to be a T25 star bit, but is so rusted out you may as well take a T30 bit, and pound it into the hole with said large metal hammer. attach impact socket driver. (besides duct tape, and large hammers, my new favorite tool) hit with hammer. repeat if neccesary. (it will be) pray to the god of skinny little punks that said screw comes out.
after screw removal, get torch. begin appling heat liberally to "hat" area of rotor. apply more heat. still apply more heat. once the breaking surface of the rotor begins turning funky yellow colors, and the wheel bearing grease is bubbling out of the bearing cap, quickly shut off (important) torch, and grab 10 lb metal sledgehammer (maul or BFH will also be acceptable) crawl under the car, and whack as close to the inside of the rotor as the dust shield will allow with as much force as you can. Repeat if neccesary.
Don't touch rotor for a while.
Remove old rotor. Coat hub with antiseaze so that the next poor SOB doesn't have to torch and beat the car to remove the rotor.
Install new rotor, put in a few lug studs to hold in place.
Install peice of caliper with 18 mm bolts. attach small metal clips that should have come with new brakes. (should. or clean off old ones and re-use them) install break pads. **On passenger front, remember to install wear sensor on brake pad. wires come towards wear face of pad, with peg going into hole on break pad. Do NOT plug into caliper yet, leave the plug hanging towards back of car.**
Using a 5" c-clamp, press piston in for new break pads. making sure not to spill break fluid on the floor from reservoir backing up. Attach second peice of caliper using two 12 mm bolts. **Pull wear sensor plug through center section of caliper, and plug in after tightening 12 mm bolts.**
Spin hub and rotor assembly so that lug stud is at 12 o'clock noon position. remove all lug studs being as careful as possible not to spin rotor or hub. genlty insert wheel, and hope that rotor and hub have not moved per the other, slide lug stud in, and thread in finger tight.
Install all lugs, and tighten in star shapped pattern.
Lower car, re-tighten lugs with breaker bar.
pump brakes a few times before moving. Go set brakes on short ride.
Drink heavily to nurse your self through cuts, bruises, burns, and remind yourself it's still better than changing a rear turbo on a dodge stealth.
Total cost:
140 bucks for "plain jane" front rotors. (ouch)
60 bucks for "plane jane" pads (ouch)
20 bucks for wear sensor (better than jag sensors...)
18 bucks brake cleaner
8 bucks high temp red paint to make calipers "look cooler"
16.99 for case of busch light to pay Craig for his tools
19 bucks for case of miller lite to take care of the burns/cuts/bruises
5 buck for bandages
total: $286.99
Still have the rears to go.
But at least the monkeys at the stealership didn't get to mess up my car again.
