I spun a bearing at the end of race season last year. Engine is out of the car and on the engine stand. I just ordered a Brand New Forged Crank. I have a new set of Clevite Engine Bearing, and 1 new rod to replace the one that spun. The other 5 rods have about 13,000 miles on them.

On 3si.org, I'd started a thread about this, but I was looking for some more opinions. A few people on there told me that I need to take my crank and rods to a machine shop to have them "checked out". Another guy clarified that they need to be balanced. I've called a couple of machine shops, and they think I'm crazy when I tell them that I need to get a brand new crank and rod balanced.

Can anyone give me some opinions on this? Is it really necessary to have the rods balanced? Shouldn't they be balanced when they come from Mitsubishi??? If not, can anyone recommend a machine shop in the Milwaukee area that can do this for me???

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[quote="pody3kgt"]<snip>

On 3si.org, I'd started a thread about this... <snip>quote]

Don't do this. Answers there cannot necessarily be trusted.

Jeff? Greg? Adam? Fry?

Help the boy here please?

SJ

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I would highly recommend having the rest of the rods checked as well as having the whole assembly balanced.

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'94 vr4- Now with extra slowness

Have just the rods balanced, or the crank too???

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Whole assembly is balanced. Rods & pistons are balanced to have the same swing weight and then the crank is counterbalanced by adding or removing weight to equal the rod and piston swing weight for each rod & piston. More important is the rods are checked for size & roundness with the bolts torqued and the crank journals are measured for size.

Recommendations on where I should take this to?

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???? http://www.w3si.org/forum/viewtopic.php ... ght=#18929 ????

Cool, thanks. I will definately give him a call.

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Do the wrist pins have to be pressed out of the pistons for balancing, or do they leave the piston and rod together?

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Doesn't matter. They weigh the piston/rod assembly together wether you give it to them assembled or not.

I would also check the clearances between the bearings and crank using green plasticgauge as shown in the manual.

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06 Blue EVO 9

Yea, i planned on using plastigauge already....I'm going to call this guy in a week or so to get this one when I get some more cash...do you guys have ANY idea on what this would typically cost???

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late jumping into this thread.

Bay Speed will also balance rotating assemblies. I believe if you wish to have any performance you should have the whole assembly balanced.

I've seen my Mike do this at his shop. It's time consuming, but worth it. No idea on typical fees, but I could call him if you want.

the theory behind it is that any mass that is out of balance in your rotating assembly will pull crank one way, and thus less oil film on that side between the bearing and the crank. as you go up in RPM you multiply that force by 4. So high RPM, high horse power applications make this neccesary.

In your beater toyota corrolla, or honda civic DD, skip it. in your VR-4, you probably want to have it done. especially if you are looking into performance parts.

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