I actually don't see any on ebay the company is selling. When I purchased mine, it wasn't on ebay, that is just where I looked for JDM sellers. I was looking for someone close enought to drive to so I didn't have to get it shipped. I called the company to see if they had one, and he did. There isn't a pic on ebay for the exact motor though.

I am very interested in the cam theory you are speaking of. I hope not. The thing is I still have the cams from the old motor, but they aren't in the head. So the pieces that hold the cam in place are all mixed up and they have been collecting rust for a few months outside. The lobes were barely worn, but I could clean them off and see if I can figure out which clamp went were.

Well first we need to rule out bad compression and ignition timing being way off.

I will do the compression test tonight along with the timing check. I will get back tomorrow with the results. I think timing should be low. around 5 degrees or something. I did check it once before, so I do know how. I believe there was a sticker under the hood that told me the exact degree it should be.
Compression is done by removing the spark plugs and attaching this pump looking deal that checks for leaks in the cylinders or something. I did it on my metro, not yet on this car. There is no sign of oil blowing past the rings on the pistons. I assume this of course since the plugs look fine/clean, and the exhaust doesn't smoke. With this, I assume the compression test will be fine.
The car smells like fuel when it is running. I fear that the cams/timing aren't working correctly and allowing too much fuel to escape out the exhaust valves robbing me of power, and making the car smell like fuel.
I failed to mention that I did change out the FPR with no change in performance. There really isn't anything else I could think of that would make the car run rich, so it has to be something with the timing. Again, hopefully it isn't a problem with the ECU that I can't see.

Haha, funny story.
I did the compression test alright. Everything is fine there.
The funny story is the timing. I hooked up the light, noticed it was off, so I decided to adjust it a bit to get it better on track. After the adjustment, took it for a spin, and it was way worse.
Scratching my head, I looked at the sticker under the hood, and it mentioned something about a ground, and find the terminal.
Well I assume that takes the ECU out of the way so it doesn't compensate. I found a little blue plastic plug looking thing right by the passenger front strut, but didn't want to risk it without verifying it was actually the terminal.
If you guys would let me know what I need to ground to set timing correctly, that would be awesome.

That's what I figured you were doing.

http://www.stealth316.com/2-checkconns.htm

So the directions you linked to me are still a bit confusing.
I don't have the newer model, so I don't think I have the ignition Timing Adjustment (the brown thing)
Not sure if I even need to do the fuel pump thing either.
For a 92, I have to jump the Diagnosis chek connector terminal 10, and jump it to terminal 12 to ground it? So attach a wire somehow to both those pins?
Then leaving the wire connected, Start the engine, and adjust the timing as normal?

Correct. You just ground the brown one (all year 3/S have them).

All that does is set the ECU's timing advance to default (which I think is 5 degrees). You then leave that pin grounded, and set the timing (with a light) to 5 degrees (once again, I need to double check in the manual) by adjusting the CAS. Then remove the wire from the pin.

Moving the CAS without grounding that pin only changes the degree which the ECU will fire the spark plug. Grounding it, sets that degree to default (and the ECU won't try to compensate).

So what you need to do is center the CAS, ground the pin, set the timing and you should be set.

G-ELL, thanks so much for all your input this far. Hopefully all I have to do is mess with the timing. Man would that be great. Again, this has been like a three month ongoing project. I will post back if this works. If it does, send me a PM wih your address, and name, and I will send ya some money as a thank you.

Ooooh, this would be a good opportunity to get some Spotted Cow exported to PA...

Not sure what spotted cow is.
I just recently moved to WI.
I will do some research and if I can find it, I'll let you know.

It's a unit of currency for W3SI as payment for car related work performed by G-ELL
http://www.newglarusbrewing.com/beers/spottedcow.html

_________________
'94 vr4- Now with extra slowness

I tried last night to set the timing on the car with the help of my wife. I was able to grab a paperclip and have her hold it on the pins down by the fuse box, but it was hard for me to ground the brown timing adjustment thing, read the timing with the gun, and set it with the CAS.
I put a paperclip into the brown timing thing and grounded it to a bolt, but since it wasn't exactly forced into the hole very well, I am not sure if my timing adjustment worked real well.
Anyways, after doing the adjustments, the car ran really well in RPMs higher than 3k.
I don't feel it miss like it did before, and it has much more pull.
I wonder if my IAC needs adjusting as well for the low end. Is there a way to zero that out as well? Also, I do have a small exhaust leak right before the O2 sensor, so it could be that I need to get the exhaust fixed before doing the timing again.
I appreciate all the advice you guys have provided this far.

When you ground that pin, it also zeros out the IAC so you can manually set the idel by adjusting the BISS on the throttle body (should be a black rubber cover over the screw).

There are directions for doing that too on www.stealth316.com

I would highly suggest (before you go farting around with that) to get your exhaust fixed. Any exhaust leaks before the O2 sensors can make the car run really rough because the sensor isn't getting accurate readings.

I welded a new flex pipe into the exhaust this weekend. Now the O2 sensor has to be getting accurate readings. No engine light is on, so I assume that the O2 sensor still works.
Car is much quieter, and running with more power. Still doesn't have that down low power, but I haven't re-timed her yet.
By the looks of things though, I am going to be sending some spotted cow out to PA.

G-ELL, looks like I need your name and address.

Thanks for all your help.