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pstriegel
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Posted: Sat Jul 22, 2006 2:27 pm |
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 3:23 pm Posts: 25 Location: bogging in cedarburg, WI
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Hey guys, my car runs shitty at like 4k ish rpm in 1st gear when I turn up the boost (via blitz dsbc) and I'm sick of running at 6 psi. I can't tell if it's a boost leak or pulling timing, but if someone around could meet up with me as soon as possible it'd be awesome!! I don't mind driving a bit, and I'll buy lunch  (but I'm poor so maybe just like tbell) I live in Cedarburg, it's like 20ish min. north of milwaukee. Help a brotha out!! Plus I'd love to check out some nice 3S's that I know are healthy, so I can feel worse about how slow mine feels -Peter Thanks a lot guys.
_________________ pearl 93 stealth r/t tt
on the apparently never-ending quest to get my car running right
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440 4x4
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Posted: Sat Jul 22, 2006 9:45 pm |
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Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2003 9:56 am Posts: 637 Location: Milwaukee
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What have you done so far?
How old are the spark plugs, and what are they gapped to? Stock turbo's?
I'm in the Milwaukee area. If you'd like to stop by sometime after work or whatever, we could do a quick pressure test on it.
PM if you want to stop by.
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pstriegel
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Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 11:57 am |
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 3:23 pm Posts: 25 Location: bogging in cedarburg, WI
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Not many people wanna help a fellow 3S'er out. I appreciate your interest in helping me out 440.
_________________ pearl 93 stealth r/t tt
on the apparently never-ending quest to get my car running right
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ttangel
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Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 2:13 pm |
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 2:25 pm Posts: 2502 Location: Green Bay
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I'll help out. Green Bay, WI. Come for the agaust gathering. I'll even give you a free rear turbo intercooler o-ring. Because yours is leaking... ask me how I know.  Seriously... Jeff (440) is probably the best equip, closest to you, knowledgeable guy out there.
_________________ Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!
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pstriegel
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Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 3:27 pm |
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 3:23 pm Posts: 25 Location: bogging in cedarburg, WI
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Oh really? It is leaking? Cause I just pulled it, cleaned it, and wrapped it with teflon tape 2 days ago. I also, just resecured some vac lines and ziptied them, and I corked the biss screw hole just today (yes I could only find cork, all my hardware stores suck and don't have small rubber stoppers) And last week I put on a new y-pipe, so I can't say it's because my seal is torn. And I have 1-step colder copper plugs gapped down to .035 that are about 2 weeks old. I also have new wires that are about a month old. OH WAIT WAIT WAIT!!! I just looked under the hood outside and discovered the rubber vacuum line was completely disconnected from the fpr. I'm not gonna get excited, cause I know my car will still run awful, but.....aw nevermind. I'll be back in a few. I'd love to come to the august gathering, but I can't stand the thought of my car running slow/shitty until then.
_________________ pearl 93 stealth r/t tt
on the apparently never-ending quest to get my car running right
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pstriegel
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Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 4:05 pm |
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 3:23 pm Posts: 25 Location: bogging in cedarburg, WI
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Hey well what do you know? It almost felt like my car ran WORSE than before. I'm so frustrated!! Here's what I've gathered from my experimentation with changing boost etc. THIS WILL BE A LONG POST, please don't run away. It's a blitz dsbc so I can only adjust boost by "ratio" BOOST CONTROLLER TURNED OFF: The car makes .40 bar, runs great, EVEN IN 1ST GEAR WOW!!!! But it's very slow (like in a 2nd gear pull it's slower than my friends 3g Eclipse GT with....exhaust only :puke:) RATIO SET AT 30, GAIN AT 0: Boost hits about .50-.53 bar In 1st gear, car pulls decent until about 4300ish rpm, then dies off for a second, then pulls again to like 5k and then dies off. 2nd gear-usually the car runs fine all through second at this boost level, maybe a very slight stutter. 3rd gear-no problem whatsoever. RATIO SET AT 25, GAIN AT 0: Boost hits about .42-.43 bar, (sry I changed from psi) 1st gear acts about the same as with RATIO at 30. 2nd gear acts the same also, with no hint of stuttering. 3rd gear- no problem whatsoever. RATIO SET AT 24, GAIN AT 0: Boost hits about .42 bar 1st gear actually worked well earlier today. 2nd gear, good 3rd gear, good RATIO SET AT 24, GAIN AT 10: I couldn't read the display well, but it def. hit more than .42, closer to .50ish 1st gear: hesitated bad like when the boost is higher 2nd gear: slight hesitation at the same spot RATIO SET AT 20, GAIN AT 10: Same shit, but boost was a little lower The highest ratio I could get to work with GAIN: 10, was RATIO 17. It boosted a little higher than stock. The hesitation always comes at the same time, only under WOT, only after 4k rpm. 1st always does it (when it happens) and 2nd does it depending on how high I try to put the ratio. I just don't know what to do anymore. I don't know why it would suck at RATIO: 25 but not RATIO: 24. I'm befuddled. Somebody please help me, or buy my car and fix it yourself 
_________________ pearl 93 stealth r/t tt
on the apparently never-ending quest to get my car running right
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ver fer
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Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 7:31 pm |
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Joined: Sun Aug 17, 2003 2:04 pm Posts: 767 Location: Oshkosh
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Regap the plugs down to 0.030". What wires are you using? Do you have a datalogger? Any fuel mods (upgraded pump/hotwire)? Try setting the set at 30 and gain at 6. I think that is what I had mine set at for 14 psi. You what to keep the gain low to prevent overboost.
_________________ '94 vr4- Now with extra slowness
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pstriegel
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Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 9:36 pm |
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 3:23 pm Posts: 25 Location: bogging in cedarburg, WI
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ver fer wrote: Regap the plugs down to 0.030". What wires are you using? Do you have a datalogger? Any fuel mods (upgraded pump/hotwire)? Try setting the set at 30 and gain at 6. I think that is what I had mine set at for 14 psi. You what to keep the gain low to prevent overboost. 1-I probably will regap the plugs, but if the problem was spark blowout, would it happen more readily in 1st gear than 2nd, and more readily in 2nd than 3rd? Because it takes more boost to hesitate in 2nd than it does in 1st, and 2nd still hesitates much less (or feels like it). I will give it a try though thanks. Just a question though, what is your method to gapping plugs? i have a lame champion measuring thing, and I just push the ground strap down on like some wood or something. is that ok? 2-My wires are just the expensive ones from napa, the ones that are supposed to be to oem specification, my dad got them for me for graduation. 3-I don't have a datalogger, and I currently have no money for one. I just foolishly spent a lot of money on a maft setup w/individual intake runners $$$(for me at least). If anybody wants a good deal on a maft 2.02 kit w/ a gm 3 5/8" maf, and a sweet setup for individual intake runners I might have to spend some money on more useful stuff (sorry I know it's not classifieds) 4-The previous owner put in a new fuel pump, I asked him if it was a walbro 255 and he said yeah. He had a printoff of the link to the ebay auction he got it from, so that should be legit. I do not believe it is hotwired. 5-At a ratio of 30, and just a gain of 0, I get horrible hesitation in 1st gear, and I don't believe a ratio of 30 would bring me anywhere near 14psi. I think it should be around .6-.63 bar, so about 8-9psi? 6-Right, I know gain tends to do that, but I've heard people going as high as 15ish with no probs. Does that seem a bit extreme? Adding gain seems to make the hesitating worse. Thanks so much for the help guys, I really appreciate it. Is it a long shot that I have a bad knock sensor or something? I don't think it is, but one of my dsm'er friends keeps mentioning that. And still, if anyone can check out my car/drive it or something, and maybe help me out, that'd be awesome.
_________________ pearl 93 stealth r/t tt
on the apparently never-ending quest to get my car running right
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ttangel
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Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 7:40 am |
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 2:25 pm Posts: 2502 Location: Green Bay
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pstriegel wrote: 2-My wires are just the expensive ones from napa, the ones that are supposed to be to oem specification, my dad got them for me for graduation.
I think we may have a winner. MSD wires from 3sx, or were ever you can get them cheap now-a-days. new copper spark plugs, stock heat range. gapped .032 or .030 w00t. That's what my problem was when the car stuttered from 4k to 5k on wot pulls.
_________________ Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!
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pstriegel
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Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 10:58 am |
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 3:23 pm Posts: 25 Location: bogging in cedarburg, WI
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Ok, cool, I'll have to give that a try. 3 questions though
1-In my previous post I asked about gapping technique. I have a cheap Champion thing, it's a circle and it has a little lip around the edge that gets bigger, and it's labeled, so you measure that way. But to gap them, I just push the ground strap down on like some wood or something. Is that ok?
2-I found msd wires on autopartswarehouse for $113 shipped, but they only list one part number for all three trim levels. Do all three trim levels use the same wires? Just makin sure?
3-I I tried a bunch of places around here, and nobody had ngk's, so I cross-referenced and got some autolites (in the car now). They are still coppers, and 1step colder, so that wouldn't be a problem right? Or would it? I've read about some people that say they work great for them, and I can get them like 2 min. from my house.
_________________ pearl 93 stealth r/t tt
on the apparently never-ending quest to get my car running right
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Jhammer
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Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 11:18 am |
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Joined: Mon May 23, 2005 11:25 am Posts: 605 Location: Waukesha. WI
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Quote: In my previous post I asked about gapping technique. I have a cheap Champion thing, it's a circle and it has a little lip around the edge that gets bigger, and it's labeled, so you measure that way. But to gap them, I just push the ground strap down on like some wood or something. Is that ok? That is how I gap mine, I have the same "ring thing" and i just tap the grounding strap on the ground as well. Seems to work fine for me. I dont have any experenice with Autolite, the last few sets of plugs I have bought have been Bosch, and they are working just fine in both my Mits and my Honda.
_________________ 1993 3000GT VR-4 (build in progress)
1994 3000GT SL
Lead, Follow, or get out of my way!
Also know as:
"dead weight", "wrong wheel drive noob"
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curt_gendron
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Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 11:51 am |
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 8:45 am Posts: 919 Location: Minnesota
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pstriegel wrote: 3-I I tried a bunch of places around here, and nobody had ngk's, so I cross-referenced and got some autolites (in the car now). They are still coppers, and 1step colder, so that wouldn't be a problem right? Or would it? I've read about some people that say they work great for them, and I can get them like 2 min. from my house. Don't put Autolites in your car. Either buy the NGK platinums PFR6J-11 which are 60k plugs, or buy the NGK copper BKR6ES or BKR7ES (one range colder). (BCPR6ES works too) Copper plugs are good for about 10k-15k miles. Gap them down to .032 or so. Your gapping tool is fine. I betcha its those crappy plugs causing your problems. Stick with NGK. Here is some light reading: http://www.stealth316.com/2-sparkplugtech.htmlater, Curt
_________________ Minnesota 3/S message board: http://forums.mn3s.org/Minnesota 3/S Facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/Minnesota.3S/
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pstriegel
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Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 12:09 pm |
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 3:23 pm Posts: 25 Location: bogging in cedarburg, WI
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Jhammer - thanks for the input. curt_gendron wrote: pstriegel wrote: 3-I I tried a bunch of places around here, and nobody had ngk's, so I cross-referenced and got some autolites (in the car now). They are still coppers, and 1step colder, so that wouldn't be a problem right? Or would it? I've read about some people that say they work great for them, and I can get them like 2 min. from my house. Don't put Autolites in your car. Either buy the NGK platinums PFR6J-11 which are 60k plugs, or buy the NGK copper BKR6ES or BKR7ES (one range colder). (BCPR6ES works too) Copper plugs are good for about 10k-15k miles. Gap them down to .032 or so. Your gapping tool is fine. I betcha its those crappy plugs causing your problems. Stick with NGK. Here is some light reading: http://www.stealth316.com/2-sparkplugtech.htmlater, Curt I would agree that the autolites could be the problem, (because they're autolites), but the set I had in before those were ngk bkr6eix's (iridiums) The only reason I put in the autolites was because I thought maybe the stock heat range was causing the problem. I was wrong. On the topic of plugs with a resistor, when is the point at which you DO NOT want a resistor plug in your car? Is that just really high-boost, full blown applications? So I will be fine with some bkr7es? (is it bkr7e's or bkr7es's?) I really really really hope the wires are the problem. I've got the plugs ready to be pulled, just waitin on money, then plugs, then wires. Thanks for all your help so far guys. Peter
_________________ pearl 93 stealth r/t tt
on the apparently never-ending quest to get my car running right
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pstriegel
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Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 12:35 pm |
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 3:23 pm Posts: 25 Location: bogging in cedarburg, WI
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Ok, Napa has 10 of the bcpr7es, so I'll be good to get those?
_________________ pearl 93 stealth r/t tt
on the apparently never-ending quest to get my car running right
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ver fer
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Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 6:55 pm |
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Joined: Sun Aug 17, 2003 2:04 pm Posts: 767 Location: Oshkosh
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pstriegel wrote: I have a cheap Champion thing, it's a circle and it has a little lip around the edge that gets bigger, and it's labeled, so you measure that way.
I have the same one but I found out that mine was actually +0.002" of what the gauge said. It could be just the one I have , but from now one I'll be using the one I had with wires that I checked with a micrometer.
_________________ '94 vr4- Now with extra slowness
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