I had this happen on mine last year. One of the wires going to the top of the drivers-side strut somehow broke (I'm assuming from me leaning on it). The easist way to test the wiring connector is to disconnect the wiring harness from the strut and the other end. It's a little tricky to remove from the strut, you usually need a very small jewelers tool or flat screwdriver to pop it out. The other end of the wiring harness is just a big clip that you squeeze.
Once it's removed, test the connectivity of each strand of wire with an ohm meter. Each wire should have continunity (0 ohms across it). If you have a wire that isn't showing 0 ohms from end to end, that wire is broken and needs to be repaired. That being the case, you can either replace just the wire itself (like I did), or find a new or used (contact
kevinw@stealth3000gtparts.com for one) harness.
If you don't have access to an ohm meter, a dealer or shop like AutoZone could probably test it for you for free or at least very cheap.
It could be possible your strut is bad too, but the blinking light usually means a bad wire. If you end up taking it to a dealer, be careful, they could feed you a line of crap about how the ECS computer is bad, strut bad, etc. and present you a HEFTY (and unnecessary) bill.
Jesse
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Best in Show - NG07
2010 - 6G74/3.5L E16Gs - 688awhp/679awtq (Race+Meth)
2011 - 6G74/3.5L 68HTAs - 740awhp/762awtq (Race+Meth)
2013 - 6G74/3.5L MTC Stage4 - 908awhp/832awtq (Race+Meth)