My clutch hose went out on me last week,Its the rubber one that looks like a brake line hose so i got a new one and put it in, bleeded out the line and i still have grinding in 2nd and 3rd gear when im driving the car 1st 4th and 5th are fine, but when stopped, i have no problems getting it to go in gear, I bleeded the line out 3 more times and still get the same thing. So i talked to a few of ya's on the phone (jeff, Jesse, joe, brandon) Also bleed out the line a few more times....i adjusted the pedal and i still get grinding?? I dont understand, how could a rubber hose blow out and then i get it fixed and bleed out the line till i went throught about 10 oz of brake fluid. And still get grinding gears??

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1992 RT/TT Black.......lots of goodies.

Your clutch is still not disengaging all the way. Where are you "bleeding" the line? When your bleading the line, you are making sure to top off the fluid so no air gets sucked in right?

Just curious, how old is the slave cylender?

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06 Blue EVO 9

I was going to say the same thing.
It could be a bad slave. Which could have been damaged when the line broke. Also, where are you bleeding from?

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~Joe - aka spider gear destroyer
'94 Stealth R/T
-Lightly Modded ;)

im bleading from the bleeder that sits on top the tranny by the hose that i replaced......Is there another place to bleed from??

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1992 RT/TT Black.......lots of goodies.

So you were bleeding from the slave cylinder, right?

I also got this as a probable cause from the Mitsu shop manual:

Clutch Booster Operating Inspection <AWD>

To check the clutch booster operation, carry out the following tests.

1) Run the engine for 2 minutes, and then stop it.

2) Step on the clutch pedal several times with normal pressure.
If the pedal depressed fully the first time but gradually becomes higher when depressed suceeding times, the booster is operating properly.
If the pedal height remains unchanged, the booster is faulty.

3) With the enging stopped, step on the clutch pedal several times with the same foot pressure to make sure that the pedal height will not change.
Then step on the clutch pedal and start the engine.
If the pedal moves downward slightly, the booster is in good condition.
If there is no change, the booster is faulty.

4) With the engine running, step on the clutch pedal and then stop the engine.
Hold the pedal depressed for 30 seconds. If the pedal height does not change, the booster is in good condition. If the pedal rises, the booster is faulty.

If any one of the above tests is not okay, the check valve, vacuum hose, or booster may be faulty.

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~Joe - aka spider gear destroyer
'94 Stealth R/T
-Lightly Modded ;)

ok.....im gonna try that right now...

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1992 RT/TT Black.......lots of goodies.

i did all the test and everything seems to be working right....so i dont know, i think im gonna a new clutch master cylinder anyways on monday and install it.... theres a little bit of fluid around the inside of the firewall by the clutch master....

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1992 RT/TT Black.......lots of goodies.

Is the slave cylinder new also? Cause I would suggest replacing that if it is old at the same time.

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~Joe - aka spider gear destroyer
'94 Stealth R/T
-Lightly Modded ;)

Im gonna get a vacum bleeder tommorrow and try that so ill keep you's posted.......

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1992 RT/TT Black.......lots of goodies.

I'd check the pedal height <awd> 7.20-7.40 in. between the front of the pedal pad and the firewall steel under the carpet.

Pedal stroke should be 6.29 in. or more.

adjust the clutch booster push rod

and the stuff already stated.

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1992 3000GT VR-4
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3SI Member 0660, 1753, 2038
W3SI Member 15

Isn't there a speedbleeder that fits the the clutch system?

I've used Mity-Vac to bleed brakes it the past and I found the tubing to be too short and the cup to be too small. The Mity-Vac has other uses though.

You can get the same bleeders(diff size) that you can for the brakes from 3SX.

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~Joe - aka spider gear destroyer
'94 Stealth R/T
-Lightly Modded ;)

UPDATE: I got a vacume bleeder and used it and I still got the grinding issues, but i had a friend come over and push in the clutch and i watched the slave cylinder move out and it only extended about 1 1/2 inches at the max, and very slowly....Is this nornal for the slave to move out slowly and extend that far?? I dont know
But anyways i got one comming in on thursday and im gonna install it on friday. Im pretty confident thats gonna solve my grinding issues I hpoe anyways.....

Brian

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1992 RT/TT Black.......lots of goodies.

Brian, have you tried adjusting the clutch again? You said you tinkered with the shifter cables too right? If anything, they need to be tightened. Sounds like you need to play with all those some more now.

I don't remember the exact specs of the clutch cylendars, but 1.5 inches sounds about right. *Pulls out manual*

Well i installed the slave cylinder and bleeded out the line, still got the same shit!

Ill try playing with the shifter linkage and the pedal again, but i doubt if that gonna solve the issue....

Any other advice guys???....replace the clutch master?

I dont know

Brian

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1992 RT/TT Black.......lots of goodies.