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Bbviper
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Posted: Thu Sep 21, 2006 11:10 pm |
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 5:03 pm Posts: 315 Location: Bonduel , WI
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Yes sad to say after all my dilligent efforts to save the engine in my car it is DOA. Last night on the way home it gave way started to clunk , ect , need I say more .. I just shut it down. I guess even with the right oil in it I wasn't able to dodge the bullit after the 5w30 oil had been accidentally put in the car at the quicky lube. Towed to my Father's shop and it will be an all winter project. IS It CHEAPER to do short block or bit and piece a pkg deal ??? I hope to be ready to go in spring... Tim
_________________ Is it true that cannibals won't eat clowns because they taste funny?
What happens if you get scared half to death twice?
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bret.holbrook
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Posted: Thu Sep 21, 2006 11:45 pm |
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Joined: Thu Mar 23, 2006 9:41 am Posts: 338 Location: Greenville, MI
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Geez Tim, I'm no mechanic but I have accidentally had 5/30 put in my car several times and never blew the thing up. Sad news. Makes my problems look like nothing. If I blew an engine I would eye the JDM engines. I've seen one put in with success and my neighbor is working on one now. Bout 800 bones gets you the entire engine. It's definately a used engine though, not new. If I blew the engine on my VR4 I would build up an engine outside the car maybe even from a 3.5 litre base. Jeez, have a great winter.
Bret
_________________ San Marino Red - Honda 3KGT VR4 For the win!
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ttangel
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Posted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 7:25 am |
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 2:25 pm Posts: 2502 Location: Green Bay
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what are your plans with the car? Do you want bigger turbos or see that in the future? if so, rebuilding with better parts wouldn't suck.
if keeping everything pretty much stock, then just another short block/used engine/JDM engine would work fine.
if you buy a JDM engine do a full 60k, and probably swap the oil pump before you through it in the car. you can NEVER tell the milage unless you buy the whole front clip, and even then, sitting an degrading belts are never a good thing to trust.
_________________ Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!
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G-ELL
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Posted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 8:07 am |
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 1:18 am Posts: 3153 Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
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If it makes you feel better, the engine was probably on its way out. Any healthy motor can take a thin weight oil for a short period of time.
The easiest fix is a new short block and new oil cooler (I've found just cleaning it after a spun bearings, doesn't get all the copper out). But that'll run ya almost 3K.
If you know of any experienced engine builders, you can probably get away with regrinding the crank, installing oversized bearings, new piston rings, and honing/cleaning the block. This will probably run ya around $1500. Once again, I highly suggest replacing the oil cooler.
To add to what Adam said, if you buy any used motor, consider replacing the mains and rod bearings as well as the water/oil pumps. This can be done without disassembling the whole motor. This will just give you quick reassurance that everything will be fine.
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Bunk
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Posted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 8:54 am |
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Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2005 4:02 pm Posts: 316 Location: Kingsford, Mi/ WI border town
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Tim,
Sorry to hear about the motor. There goes more money you didn't plan on spending. At least it happened in the fall and not in the spring. It really would suck if it was in the spring and the car was parked all summer. Now you have the winter to work on it and save $$ for the rebuild.
Bunk (the Yooper)
_________________ 93 3000 GT VR4
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Bbviper
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Posted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 11:21 am |
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 5:03 pm Posts: 315 Location: Bonduel , WI
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Thanks Guys, Until I pull it out I am not going to decide on what I am going to do excatly. Suposedly this engine had 10k on a new rebuild when I bought it last November. My Dad feels this rebuild was a) not either very well done or b) we feel it wasn't as complete of a "rebuild" as I was told. It seems to me the engine was a little more tired than was led on. Remember my oil pressure issues...... Very LOW... light and all . Well why would oil pressure be low in a newer rebuild???? I would think you would cover yourself with a new Oil pump or something??????? Either way I will be doing a clutch up grade/ flywheel. OEM clutch 100,000 never changed.....??? See that can't be right either. Any way ther rest I think might just be stock. I just got H4 headlights2 days ago... never got them in. So I guess the budget is in like the 2k range we shall see. To get a short block from 3SX = 3k plus 350 $ to ship it. WOW that's a headache right there. I haven't slept since the car flew appart. I feel like I did something wrong ... I never raced or beat it but look at me at the head of the class! I get to do the fun part. HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO PULL THE ENGINE? ANY SIMPLE TIPS OTHER THAN AFTER FLUSH THE OIL COOLER? Thanks Guys Tim
_________________ Is it true that cannibals won't eat clowns because they taste funny?
What happens if you get scared half to death twice?
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G-ELL
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Posted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 11:37 am |
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 1:18 am Posts: 3153 Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
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Bbviper wrote: Well why would oil pressure be low in a newer rebuild???? I would think you would cover yourself with a new Oil pump or something??????? A new oil pump will only increase oil pressure if the pump itself is bad. If the bearings have worn, a new oil pump won't make any difference. Don't buy a new short block thru 3SX. Get one thru Kayser or one of the local dealerships that give us discounts. It'll run you about $2500 instead of 3K.
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ttangel
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Posted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 12:16 pm |
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 2:25 pm Posts: 2502 Location: Green Bay
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Also, my car had 95k on the original clutch and flywheel. it took DR500s to kill it.
I say you change the oil and look for copper specs before planning the funeral.
and if the rebuild was done improperly, (or properly according to domestics, but not to 6g72s) they seem to last about 1k to 10k be the accounts I've read about with other people...
these engines can be kinda fussy with the bearing tolerances.
_________________ Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!
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Bbviper
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Posted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 7:01 pm |
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 5:03 pm Posts: 315 Location: Bonduel , WI
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Greg , How long does it take in the shop to pull the engine? My dad eluded to the removal and inspection taking 7 3/4 hrs. What's your take?
_________________ Is it true that cannibals won't eat clowns because they taste funny?
What happens if you get scared half to death twice?
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Bbviper
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Posted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 7:22 pm |
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 5:03 pm Posts: 315 Location: Bonduel , WI
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What is a "JDM" engine?
_________________ Is it true that cannibals won't eat clowns because they taste funny?
What happens if you get scared half to death twice?
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bret.holbrook
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Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2006 7:00 am |
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Joined: Thu Mar 23, 2006 9:41 am Posts: 338 Location: Greenville, MI
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Bbviper wrote: What is a "JDM" engine? Good ole Japanese engine, shipped on the slow boat from Japan. My understanding is they have much stricter laws about keeping cars on the road so it is not uncommon to pull an engine with "40-60k miles" in decent condition. They are typically guaranteed not to be DOA, not that that almost matters as the labor is everything. It took my buddy Gabe about 24 hours to get his in and that was his first engine, 8 hours for a seasoned mechanic sounds about right. Guaranteed once you have it all plugged in something else will need to be done so there is typically troubleshooting after that. There are a ton of shops that resell these engines, just type japanese engine or jdm engine in google, I'll list a couple shops that sell them. Also, ebay always lists engines from these types of companies. I've seen them for as low as 750 to as high as 1200 for used. If you go this route, make sure to keep your old engine right next to the new one as invariably a couple things are different on the JDM engines, nothing major though, just bolt on type stuff, for example Gabe had to use his old throttle body and intake plenium. Also, 440 4x4 eluded to having a short block in his garage, don't know if that is still the case. http://www.risingsunengines.com/http://www.jdmenginesinc.com/3000gt.html#Good luck, whichever route you go. Bret
_________________ San Marino Red - Honda 3KGT VR4 For the win!
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G-ELL
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Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2006 7:35 am |
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 1:18 am Posts: 3153 Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
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Bbviper wrote: Greg , How long does it take in the shop to pull the engine? My dad eluded to the removal and inspection taking 7 3/4 hrs. What's your take? That sounds about right. Book hours to pull/teardown/rebuild/reinstall a turbo motor is about 30hours. That's about how long it takes me give or take. With help, I got one done in about 16 once.
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440 4x4
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Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2006 9:43 pm |
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Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2003 9:56 am Posts: 637 Location: Milwaukee
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The first gen N/A block is still available...
There's also a '98 TT block waiting for its owner. I'm guessing he'd be willing to sell it.
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Bbviper
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Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 10:20 am |
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 5:03 pm Posts: 315 Location: Bonduel , WI
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WOW , MEAN WOW! I checked out the JDM's I might just do that. It seems like it might be a favorable route to go. They even cover some engines 30 days after you get it going. I had no clue that is market existed . THANKS GUYS , I can't Thank you enough! I am going to wait to buy something closer to the time when I Pull the old and pop in the next. Thanks again! Tim
_________________ Is it true that cannibals won't eat clowns because they taste funny?
What happens if you get scared half to death twice?
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G-ELL
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Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 9:48 pm |
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 1:18 am Posts: 3153 Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
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If you buy a JDM engine, I'd replace the bearings, oil pump, water pump, and t-belt. You NEVER know what kind of shape those motors will be in.
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