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346.57(5)
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Posted: Fri May 26, 2006 8:11 pm |
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Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2006 5:55 pm Posts: 52 Location: Waukesha
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OK--I might be able to handle that. I know there are a couple of indicators as to where the problem might be. I just need the where to listen and what does it mean explained to me. How much pressure should I be putting into the cylinder when I do the leak down test. Do you think it is necessary to get compression on the back cylinders? I replaced the PCV when I started this project along with some vacuum lines. I think there has been a past problem with some sort of back pressure. I replaced the oil filler cap because it was leaking and the front valve cover gasket show signs of a leak. The new cap fixed the leak and I haven't gotten to the valve cover yet. Thanks again, Mike
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346.57(5)
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Posted: Fri May 26, 2006 8:30 pm |
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Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2006 5:55 pm Posts: 52 Location: Waukesha
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G-ELL, Do you know of site where I could see a picture of what you are describing on the cams? I usually go to "Stealth316.com" to look for visual aids but, can't find anything on cams and or timing marks. Guess I'm looking to pop for a "real" boost gauge too. Do you have a suggestion as to which one and where to get it? If they run about $40-50 and my manual boost might need an upgrade to an electric style what would be the recommendation there. I know it's easy to spend someone elses money but, I can check around on prices. That of course after I get the current problem fixed. Thanks---Mike
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346.57(5)
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Posted: Sat May 27, 2006 8:12 pm |
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Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2006 5:55 pm Posts: 52 Location: Waukesha
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Well--I've turned down the boost and don't get that "miss" or "stumbling" at the higher revs. When I drove it home from work today I did a "Leak Down Test" on Cyl. #1. I didn't hear anything coming from anywhere. But, just in case any leak might be the same pitch and tone as my wife's voice ( I can't hear her all the time either) I called out the Boy's 16 year old ears. Since he prides himself in taking several years of shop classes his opinion is....No leaks. I had a chance to stop at "Renner Mits." today and even though it was Saturday I got the attention of someone working inside and he came to out to talk...YES SJ I was at work (kind of like when we met that time) and it does help to see them when I am at work as they seem more attentive. So anyway--- I explained my situation and "our" ideas on the matter. Turns out he was one of the owners but, still after being in the Biz for a while he felt that if the Leak Down Test was negative I should be looking at a fuel supply issue. He feels there is an injector issue and invited me back to see a Tech. ( mechanic) when I have time. Any other suggetstions at this point? How to trouble shoot injectors? Thanks for any attention guys, Mike
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G-ELL
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Posted: Sun May 28, 2006 11:21 am |
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 1:18 am Posts: 3153 Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
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I'm not quite convinced yet. There's got to be a reason why the compression is lower in that cylender. Maybe you should redo the compression test just in that cylender. Make sure the gauge is screwed in all the way and you're cranking the motor over long enough (5 seconds at least).
My old car used to burn oil under boost. Switching to a new PVC alone didn't solve the issue in my car. I had to get Krank Vents as they have a stronger valve. You may get lucky with just lowering the boost.
Just curious if the car blows smoke after ideling for an extended period of time.
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346.57(5)
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Posted: Sun May 28, 2006 5:22 pm |
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Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2006 5:55 pm Posts: 52 Location: Waukesha
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Is that 10 P.S.I. differance between those cylinders that bad? I haven't notice excessive smoke after idle. Got a boost gauge today and should have it in---when I get to it. I took the compression tester back to the guy who has all the tools I don't. I can get it back when I get back from Vegas and turn by attention back to the car. For now, I've got to get the lawn done before I go tomorrow afternoon and a few other things.. Talk to you later. Mike
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SJ
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Posted: Mon May 29, 2006 8:11 am |
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Joined: Sun Mar 06, 2005 9:48 pm Posts: 2958
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G-ELL wrote: My old car used to burn oil under boost. Switching to a new PVC alone didn't solve the issue in my car. I had to get Krank Vents as they have a stronger valve. Mad Scientist: You want to explain this one for those of use following along at home? SJ
_________________ Racing is life. Everything else is just waiting. http://umg.mn3s.orghttp://ummo.boards.net
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ttangel
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Posted: Tue May 30, 2006 7:28 am |
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 2:25 pm Posts: 2502 Location: Green Bay
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Krank vents hold back more pressure. something you should be running once you go over, around 18~20 lbs. the stock mistu valve just stops cutting the mustard then.
What I would recommend doing with your pressure test is one dry, then toss a tad bit of 30 wieght oil in there, and see if the numbers improve. if they do, and they head up to 160 area the second test, you know that it's the piston rings that have given up the fight.
to be honest, I don't think that 10 psi less compression is that bad...
_________________ Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!
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G-ELL
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Posted: Tue May 30, 2006 8:43 pm |
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 1:18 am Posts: 3153 Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
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Actually, the PCV is something that should be replaced every 60K on a turbo car. A good test for them is while you're doing an intake leak test (with the rear breather hose disconnected), open your oil cap and see if you hear air rushing out. Betcha you're going to. 10psi difference is the service limit in the manual. I personally wouldn't worry about it for some time, but if whatever is causing that drop is also causing the high emissions, then it's something that should be looked into. b.t.w. The only way to test feul injectors is to remove them and get them flow tested. I know the origonal stock injectors aren't going to last very long running 14psi with 13Gs. The duty cycles are beyond maxed.
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346.57(5)
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Posted: Tue Jun 06, 2006 2:21 pm |
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Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2006 5:55 pm Posts: 52 Location: Waukesha
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Well got back from Vegas and got the boost gauge installed. Spent the next several minutes turning it down to where max boost is about 8. This is 2 times less than what it had been set at...YUP--- we were well over 15 close to 20. It is running much better now and accelerates smoother. But, boy did it get slow....Actually Slower not really slow. I can see why you guys build these things. I think if I go with the larger injectors and put the SAFC back in this could get fun again. Who's got a deal on injectors?
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