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ttangel
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Posted: Mon Apr 10, 2006 8:58 am |
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 2:25 pm Posts: 2502 Location: Green Bay
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Well, with Greg gone, and the rest of us slipping up on the basics, Sj and I thought it might be a decent idea to start up a thread with some basic stuff on it. so with out further adu...
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ttangel
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Posted: Mon Apr 10, 2006 9:13 am |
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 2:25 pm Posts: 2502 Location: Green Bay
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PRESSURE TEST.
If you have a turbo car, you have about 15 miles of rubber lines under your hood. if you haven't check them in the last 2 months I garuntee they are leaking.
You can make a pressure tester out of CPVC tub and a few fittings Home Depot, or you can buy a pressure tester from 3sx or Rob Beck for about 35 bucks.
then you just pump up your car and listen for leaks.
The most common spots for leaks are the y-pipe gasket, the rear turbo outlet o-ring, in the throttle body, and the intercoolers.
the y-pipe is typically fixable with hair spray or gel.
The o-ring can be bought at a mitsu dealer or at a decent hardware shop.
The throttle body will need to be worked on, look for a thread by JRink on this subject.
The intercoolers, depending on where the leak is from can be epoxied, jb welded, or real-life welded.
This is something that should be done to a car a minimum of once a summer, and would be better to be done once a month.
The stock intercooler lines are just rubber tubing, and with vibration and heat cycles tend to lossen up and leak a bit.
Also, don't feel you need to keep the stock mitsu hose clamps for the life of the car. if they start to look worn, change them out.
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ttangel
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Posted: Mon Apr 10, 2006 12:39 pm |
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 2:25 pm Posts: 2502 Location: Green Bay
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BASIC UPGRADES and THINGS TO WATCH
BOVs (blow off valves)
aftermarket blow of valves are one of the first upgrades that people do.
There are a few things to consider. The first being open or closed loop. Closed loop routes the air back into the intake system. Open loop lets the air out to atmosphere. why keep closed loop? 1) re-spools the turbos 2) On the stock MAS it will keep the "air count right" 3) no need for plugging any holes Why go to open loop? 1) "sounds cool" 2) closed loop sends that hot air that has already been compressed going back into your turbo to be compressed and made hotter a second time, while open loop lets it escape to atmoshpere. 3) Open loop is a tad simpler, as you just throw the BOV on the y-pipe hole, and plug the hole under the stock splitter, also giving less places to leak.
Also, different BOVs hav different ways of opening, but in general, they all have a vacuum line running to them. this must be after the throttle body, as when the butterfly vavle slams shut, the plenum goes into vacuum right away, and that vacuum helps suck the valve open.
BOOST CONTROLLERS
Before we change to the new, we should understand the old. The stock boost controller is the wastegate, with a soleniod.
The turbo is driven by hot, expanding exhaust gasses hitting the turbine blades. On one side of the turbine we have a hole that is covered with a flapper valve. This valve can open and closed to regulate the amount of exhaust that goes acrossed the turbine wheel, or bypasses it. This internal flapper(wastegate) is controlled by a wastegate actuator. The wastegate actuator is a simple device that responds to boost pressure, with a spring.
F=KX
This is the govening equation on a spring. F is the force, or pressure. k is the spring constant, and x is the distance the spring will move. The wastegate with out any pressure is normally closed.
With one vacuum line hooked to the plenum, or y-pipe, that goes to the actuator we know that we will hold around 6 lbs of boost. If the pressure goes over that, the air in the vacuum line to the actuator will press harder on the spring, and open the flapper more. this will dump more exhaust around the turbo, and will result in lower boost. as the boost drops, the pressure in the vacuum line will also decrease, allowing the spring to re-gain the edge, and push shut. thus letting more exhaust flow over the wheel, and making more boost, at least again until the springs rated pressure is exceeded.
The solenoid on the stock system intercepts the air in the vacuum line, so that you can go up higher in pressure before the spring in the wastegate. (~9 psi on 1st gens, ~12 psi on second gens.)
The soleniod is a small electronic valve that opens and closes to let the air through to the wastegate. it is set by the mitsu engineers and is not changeable. once the proper pressure has been reached, it opens, and lets the higher pressure air past to the wastegate, which then can act like it normally does, regulating boost.
Aftermarket Boost controllers can be of two types.
Electric and Manual.
Manual is just a spring and a ball. the spring is set for a certain pressure, which can be adjusted by a screw which tightens the spring. This adjusts the pressure that the ball will open at, which will adjust the pressure that the wastegates see.
To install one, take the line off the back of the Y-pipe, and run it to the manual boost controller. after the boost controller run a line to a tee. after the tee run one line to the front turbo actuator, and one line to the rear turbo actuator. These are the small cylinders off the side of the turbos that have the stock hoses running to them. The line from the y-pipe to the controller, and the controller to the tee should be keep as short as possible for best response. The lines that are going to the wastegates should be kept as close to equal length as possible.
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G-ELL
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Posted: Mon Apr 10, 2006 4:26 pm |
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 1:18 am Posts: 3153 Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
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ttangel wrote: the y-pipe is typically fixable with hair spray or gel. You cannot buy new y-pipe gaskets from the dealer. If your stock gasket is ripped/dried/cracked, consider purchasing a 3 hose coupler and 2 new worm style clamps. It's a tight fit, but a 3" coupler will clear over the "hump" of the y-pipe. This will solve the issue of it blowing off. Typically, guys will ruin the gasket while reinstalling the y-pipe. A trick for this is to take a heat gun (hair dryer might work) and heat up the end of the pipe for 10 seconds or so. This will make reinstalling the y-pipe much much easier and won't damage that delicate old gasket. The hose clamp will hold it onto the throttle body.
_________________ 06 Blue EVO 9
Last edited by G-ELL on Mon Apr 10, 2006 4:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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G-ELL
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Posted: Mon Apr 10, 2006 4:29 pm |
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 1:18 am Posts: 3153 Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
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ttangel wrote: PRESSURE TEST.
You can make a pressure tester out of CPVC tub and a few fittings Home Depot, or you can buy a pressure tester from 3sx or Rob Beck for about 35 bucks.
then you just pump up your car and listen for leaks. It's important that you disconnect the rear head vent that goes to the rear intake tube and cap it before doing a pressure test. What happens is, you end up pressurizing the whole breather system which can be bad for old/worn valvestem seals. Long term presurization will wear out seals specificallying in the head (cam seals and valve cover gaskets).
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SJ
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Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 7:45 am |
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Joined: Sun Mar 06, 2005 9:48 pm Posts: 2958
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I'll add a couple here in lieu of what's going on...
Oil Filters:
Recommend OEM or Mobil 1 REGARDLESS, you'll need the crush ring.
Oil:
Recommend Mobil 1 Winter I ran 10W30 or 5W30 if really cold Summer 15W50
I know there are other's out there, please chime in if you'd had good luck. I have found Mobil 1 best for me.
There was also some discussion about switching too late or early from fossil oils, but I can't remember the specifics there.
Fluids:
Transaxle (transmission) Transfercase Rear End
Because I beat my car at the track, I change mine every two years.
Anti-freeze:
Every two years at minimum
Brake fluid:
Get some speed bleeders and bleed often When you change the pads, open up the bleeder.
Let me know if I missed something or need to abuse Adam more... errrrrr.... change anything.
_________________ Racing is life. Everything else is just waiting. http://umg.mn3s.orghttp://ummo.boards.net
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G-ELL
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Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 12:29 pm |
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 1:18 am Posts: 3153 Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
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SJ wrote: Recommend OEM or Mobil 1 REGARDLESS, you'll need the crush ring. I use Purolator oil filters and have never replaced the crush ring (unless it's leaking). The main reason is it's the best quality filter available at a reasonable price at most autoparts stores. The stock crush ring is meant to be reused. The rubber gasket for the oil filters aren't. Make sure you check to see the old rubber gasket ring came off when you pulled off the oil filter. It does occassionally stick to the oil filter housing. SJ wrote: Recommend Mobil 1 Winter I ran 10W30 or 5W30 if really cold Summer 15W50 Never use 5W-30 unless the temp gets below zero and stays that way for a few days. It even states this in the owners manual. I run 15w50 because the oil becomes thinner as it heats up and when you're running 22psi with the stock oil cooler, it get's pretty darn hot. I usually use Castrol Syntec because once again, it's been shown that it's one of the most quality synthetic oils you can buy at nearly every corner. It's about the same price as Moble 1 too. Don't get me wrong, I'll purchase Moble 1 if that's whatever the store has that I'm shopping at. SJ wrote: There was also some discussion about switching too late or early from fossil oils, but I can't remember the specifics there. Correct. If you have 100K+ on your unopened motor, it's best to stick with regular oil because switching to synthetic (which is thinner than regular) will clean out the carbon deposits enbedded in the cracks in the gaskets. This can lead to oil leaks.
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ttangel
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Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 1:52 pm |
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 2:25 pm Posts: 2502 Location: Green Bay
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The Purolator Oil filters are suppose to be the same as the OEM ones now.
I won't get to far into oil filter anaylsis, as everyone and there brother comes up with which aftermarket filter is the best. I will only say two things. Mitsubishi must honor a warranty. Thus, they will not put crap parts on. If in doubt go OEM. I would never use fram on anything, as I have SEEN in PERSON more than one failed fram filter.
Oil, I would run a 15w50. in winter, a 10w40. I don't believe these engines want normal 10w30. But that's just me.
I do not believe the stock crush washer is meant to be re-used. that's why new ones come with every oil filter purchase, all you have to do is ask. Look at a new one, and a used one. there is a difference. They CAN be re-used. But they aren't meant to be. You can re-crush them a few times. They are a soft metal. A true re-seal-able drain plug has a rubber insert in it.
If you change your oil, and your used crush washer isn't leaking, don't worry about it.
motor oil is another favorite topic for everyone to have an opinion on. I use mobil 1, but may have to switch as it seems they no longer have a completely synthetic 15w50.
You can switch back and forth between fully synthetic and modern dino oil at any time. The reason that synthetic "typically" comes out "more dirty" is because it has more detergents and it is formulated to be more stable. But even dino oil is more forumlated, and man made than it evr has been before. I've talked to the engineers from two different oil companies about this and oil use in turbocharger applications. they both told me the same thing... not much different, the synthetic just reacts better to severe temperatures. (I used to be the "you can't switch to synthetic if you've been running dyno oil camp" until I talked to them.)
The in-built stability of the fully synthetic oil as temperatures rise means that it will be more resistant to choking in the bearings of the turbos. That is the main reason that I run it in my turbo car.
That is also the reason why they are now saying you can run an oil longer than 3000 miles now-a-days. the oil is more resistant to breaking down, and losing it's lubrication properties, and it's life is becoming more determined by how long the detergents last.
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My94r/t
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Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 7:43 pm |
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 12:04 am Posts: 1237 Location: Milwaukee, WI
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Adam, When did they stop making Mobile 1 in 15w50? Just wondering as I always see it around down here.
Also, I second the Fram filters. I disected a standard Fram back in H.S. and the material was literally a thin paper inside. I can't see how it could really protect anything. Not sure on the tough gaurd ones as they use a different inner filtering material. I use the Mopar equivlent to the Mitsu part #. The only difference to me is the price and the lack of a plastic seal over the oil holes on it that I used to see on the Mitsu ones.
The crush rings can be re-used, but commonly get damaged by over -tightening. Just like an oil filter, you do not need to crank on it. Once the plug stops by finger tightening, you only need about a 1/4 turn after that. Mine lasted about 50(15 or so by me without changing the ring) oil changes(assuming it was changed every 3000 by the original owner) with no leaking. I replaced mine because I wanted one that was magnetic and because it was becoming rounded.
_________________ ~Joe - aka spider gear destroyer
'94 Stealth R/T
-Lightly Modded ;)
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ttangel
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Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 7:18 am |
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 2:25 pm Posts: 2502 Location: Green Bay
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They still make Mobil 15w50. But it is now a "blended" formula for long duration oil change cars. Not a fully synthetic for high performance engines like it used to be.
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SJ
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Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 7:42 am |
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Joined: Sun Mar 06, 2005 9:48 pm Posts: 2958
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ttangel wrote: They still make Mobil 15w50. But it is now a "blended" formula for long duration oil change cars. Not a fully synthetic for high performance engines like it used to be. That bites. Is there an alternative? Best, SJ
_________________ Racing is life. Everything else is just waiting. http://umg.mn3s.orghttp://ummo.boards.net
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My94r/t
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Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 5:42 pm |
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 12:04 am Posts: 1237 Location: Milwaukee, WI
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ttangel wrote: They still make Mobil 15w50. But it is now a "blended" formula for long duration oil change cars. Not a fully synthetic for high performance engines like it used to be. Ahh... The last time I checked, they had both the full synthetic and a extended life out by me. SJ, you could always use Royal Purple or Castrol Syntec.
_________________ ~Joe - aka spider gear destroyer
'94 Stealth R/T
-Lightly Modded ;)
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unclebenny
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Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 11:56 pm |
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2003 3:27 am Posts: 934 Location: Oconomowoc WI
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Le Royal w/ Cheese owns joo.
Royal purple and Amsoil are expensive, but the are the junk.
_________________
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SJ
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Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 7:48 am |
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Joined: Sun Mar 06, 2005 9:48 pm Posts: 2958
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unclebenny wrote: Le Royal w/ Cheese owns joo.
Royal purple and Amsoil are expensive, but the are the junk. What'd he say? SJ
_________________ Racing is life. Everything else is just waiting. http://umg.mn3s.orghttp://ummo.boards.net
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ttangel
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Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 9:22 am |
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 2:25 pm Posts: 2502 Location: Green Bay
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I have yet to find a place that still carries the fully synthetic in GB. Maybe someone can enlighten me, but all I can find is the extended life blended stuff...
Amsoil is junk? really. My father runs some of that stuff in his airplane, and since he has started the engine has stopped showing normal signs of wear... (I believe they run dyno oil with a synthetic amsoil additive bottle.)
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