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rjnelson4
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Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2005 3:03 pm |
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Joined: Mon Sep 12, 2005 10:47 pm Posts: 22 Location: Stoughton
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I was trying to test my system for boost leaks. I hooked up the air compressor to a T. I put the T in bettween the line from the intake plennium to the BOV. I put 10 psi in the system. When I removed the oil cap pressure shot out along with some oil. Why did it do this?
_________________ 1991 Mitsubishi 3kgt VR4
6spd manual transmission conversion
130,000 milles
Black/tan
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ttangel
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Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2005 3:08 pm |
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 2:25 pm Posts: 2502 Location: Green Bay
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you pressured the heads. you have a vacuum line running to the back of the "T" splitter after the MAS. It's job is to suck oil vapors out of the heads. they are sucked into the turbos, through the intake path, and burned in the combustion chamber. This area is "pre-turbo" and only see's vacuum in normal driving conditions. To stop it from doing that, pull the line where it attaches to the head, and plug it with something. I prefer a dried up tube of RTV.
_________________ Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!
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curt_gendron
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Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2005 3:32 pm |
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 8:45 am Posts: 919 Location: Minnesota
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ttangel wrote: To stop it from doing that, pull the line where it attaches to the head, and plug it with something. I prefer a dried up tube of RTV. Ha, I use the butt end of a crappy old 3/8s rachet that proudly says "made in Taiwan".  The hose Adam is talking about attaches to the rear head and snakes along. Its kind of U or S shaped, and isn't very flexible. later, Curt
_________________ Minnesota 3/S message board: http://forums.mn3s.org/Minnesota 3/S Facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/Minnesota.3S/
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G-ELL
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Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2005 3:35 pm |
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 1:18 am Posts: 3153 Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
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The truth is, I wouldn't be worried about the oil splattering out out the cap. The oil cap makes an easy release for the pressure test.
...but to add to what Adam said, if you're still running the stock PVC valve, you may need to disconnect and cap that as well. It doesn't hold pressure very well. This leads to valvestem seals wearing out prematurely and burring oil under boost. In some cases, I've seen bad PVC valves cause the dipstick to shoot out and hit the hood.
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rjnelson4
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Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2005 12:08 am |
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Joined: Mon Sep 12, 2005 10:47 pm Posts: 22 Location: Stoughton
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How should I modify the PCV? What are some other things that should be modified on my car for saftey concerns?
_________________ 1991 Mitsubishi 3kgt VR4
6spd manual transmission conversion
130,000 milles
Black/tan
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ttangel
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Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2005 8:04 am |
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 2:25 pm Posts: 2502 Location: Green Bay
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pull off the mitsu badges...
_________________ Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!
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G-ELL
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Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2005 8:53 am |
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 1:18 am Posts: 3153 Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
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rjnelson4 wrote: How should I modify the PCV? What are some other things that should be modified on my car for saftey concerns? There's nothing you can really do other than buy Krank vents. (check em out on www.stealth316.com) If you don't plan on running more than stock boost, I wouldn't worry about it too much.
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