feeling a bit slow now...

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Ok, I see on 3si and such people pressure testing there cars to 20 psi. at 11 psi my oil cap leaks like a sieve. If I hold that down it'll make it to about 17 psi before little hoses start hissing. Doesn't really bother me, seeing as it will be a while before my car see above 17 psi, but is the oil cap leaking at 11 psi normal?

Greg, when do you have a free weekend, lets change the belts and the turbos. It's nice enough outside now. let me know and I will get steaks. Turbo swap/ cook-out. No vegatarians allowed...

Adam

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Bad decisions make good stories.
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This weekend is bad. Next weekend might work. Call me in the next couple days and let's work it out.

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06 Blue EVO 9

Put the Greddy Profec B Spec II in the car last night. That was an ordeal. It could have been a 30 min install, but it was more like 5 hours. I started by completely scratching my head at the mass of vacuum lines. That's freaking rediculous.

Finally decide I know what goes where and begin pulling vacuum lines. I get about two vacuum lines into it, and decide I don't know what lines to pull. about ten minutes later I decide I was right the first time, and continue to work on vacuum lines. I pulled the lines off the soleniod, and cap the soleniod. I decided to keep the stock wastegate lines and run them to the Greddy solenoid. I'll let you guys know how that works instead of equal length in a bit. I then decided that the vacuum line coming of the inlet tube to the turbo compressor needed to be plugged at the nipple coming off instead of just leaving it on the solenoid and plugging the other "out" nipple on the soleniod. So I pulled it off. and the nipple it was attached to...

Boo that.

So I can't jam the nipple back in the pipe, as the tangled mess of lines and anything that is remotely sharp enough to cut my hand won't let me. So out comes the battery, the y-pipe, and other fun stuff. Then the turbo inlet pipe comes off. Add superglue, and jam the nipple into tube. Clean tube with 409. (what can I say, Jesse is rubing off on me.) Look at rear turbo. Looks good. spins nicely. no shaft play!!! these turbos have 115,000 miles on them. wow. Now, how am I going to get this little bastard tube back on... Start pushing and twisting and finagiling (pronounced FEE-nay-ga-ling) until it pops back on quite easily actually. Congradulate myself on a small victory. Go to tighten hose clamp on inducer of turbine wheel. drop small rachet. Doesn't hit the ground. Congradulate myself on being so dumb. Jack up car. look for about 20 minutes before I finally see it hung up on the rear precat eliminator/downpipe. Get back top side and tighten clamp being VERY careful not to drop the rachet. Plug off all nipples left open, and put everything back in car. Take battery back out of car. forgot to run lines through firewall. D'oh.

This was a fight. that 4mm vacuum refused to accept it's new position in life. wiring went fairly quickly. I knew about where I wanted to tap into. hook the controller up. pressure test to make sure I did not make any new leaks with the new hoses. Find one. Fix it. put MAF back on. moment of truth. car starts and stays running. no check engine lights. Victory is mine.

Father shows up. Just in time. need some one to watch the boost gauge. Put in 25% for boost limit and 10% gain. Time to go for a ride. slowly back out, slowly get on gas. second gear, start a pull.

POP. THUD. shit. wtf. Dead in front of Brett's house. I can see people looking out the window. Dad asks me if he needs to walk back to the house and get a flash light. No. I think I know what it is. pop the hood. re-attach the y-pipe and limp home. 59 cent hose clamp that wasn't quite right that I tried to make work. no chance. So then I went to bed and will pick up a brand new shiny hose clamp after work today.

So far I like the fact that the unit is so small. I do not like the fact that I have to run a vacuum line through the firewall. that is teh lose. I also don't like the fact that I have way to much vacuum line to the unit to put it where I can see it easily/want it to be. I hope that doesn't affect spiking issues to much. I also do not like that it goes into negative kilopascals for vacuum. negative pressure is lame. how many negative kilopascals is 500 mm of mercury anyway? When I start the car it shows 0.00 or -0.01 kpa. Also those little plastic tees that greddy gives you to splice lines suck nuggets. I'll have to get a better tee when I get a hose clamp.

tune-ability, don't know. I'll give a better report when I get a hose clamp.

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Oh boy... Sounds like you got a mess. Looks like next Friday night and Saturday are open for me. I'll come up and give you a hand. We'll do a vac line reduction and the t-belt stuff.

That Y-pipe is going to be a problem.

Y-pipe a problem? and here I thought a new hose clamp would solve that... next weekend sounds good.

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It's the gasket that's the problem. The rubber piece that goes around the t-body under the y-pipe clamp. No matter how tight you make that clamp, it will always slip. Rubber is not good to use for connectors. Doesn't help that there's no bead on the t-body to help stay in place.

I've found hair spray helps hold rubber connectors in place. We can try that on your car.

I dunno. the pipe clamp was really loose. really really loose. "I should have known better than to drive with it that way" loose, but I had confidence in my new found pressure testing results. I will try hairspray as well.

ENGINE FIRE!!!!!!!

True story. My dad blew his eye brows off with hair spray once. Don't have pictures like the pigeon, but once you meet my old man you'll believe.

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Bad decisions make good stories.
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I have also found that the rubber cement that is used for tire repair works well also.

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'94 vr4- Now with extra slowness

How hard are the connectors to remove later on?

K, new hose clamp mod worked swell. boosting to 0.6 bar on the gauge and 0.9 bar PEAK on the boost controller. I don't know what to make of that. I think the boost gauge is off. Greg we had talked earlier about the size of the vacuum line making a difference. I have 6mm on there now, and it's Teed with the plenum reading for the BOV. The controller comes of the y-pipe, and is in 4mm line. It also has about 2~3 times the amount of vacuum line that the gauge has. I thought if anything the gauge would have read higher.

I'm going to play it safe and just believe the controller as I have no way of logging knock. hoping to have the logger software delivered any day now and then I will get more daring.

Thing is the car feels way slower. I know I've only played with the controller for about 5 minutes. I know that the gauge went to 1.1 bar on the stock boost soleniod any time you massed the gas pedal, but like I said, I'm gonna play it safe for now.

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Greddy Emanage came just a few minutes ago. SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET! I have wood. This means that I am in fact blowing off work and Elkhart lake for a date with my favorite red head tommorrow.

Now I really wish I had my logger software...

So for anybody who wants to stop by I will be in massive wiring mode tommorrow.

Injectors are being flow tested as we speak, providing all those pass(or at least 6 out of 7), and the pump shows up, and I learn how to tune in a timely basis I could actually be fast yet this summer.

BTW? Oil cap leaking at 11 psi. worry or no worry?

Thanks for all the help so far boys!

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Bad decisions make good stories.
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Well I was going to go to RA but Jesse will probably be the only one there anyway. I could come up and help out.

_________________
'94 vr4- Now with extra slowness

Nevermind,
My cousin decided he was sick of having no stereo in his STI and wants me to put one in today.
It's going to suck if it wasn't wired from the factory.

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'94 vr4- Now with extra slowness

1.1 bar stock! That's almost 16psi! That's not good. .9 bar (13psi) is more where it's supposed to be at.

It's not so much the size of the vac line making a difference as having the diameter be the same in your vac line "T" on all sides. Also, if there are any pinches or kinks in the line, that will make the reading lower (which is probably what's going on in your case).

Don't worry about the oil cap. If your PVC valve is working (which it doesn't do well above stock boost), there shouldn't be any boost pressure in the crank case. The reason you had pressure in there was because of the pressure going in thru rear vent durring your test.

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06 Blue EVO 9

Boo on STI stereo. If he wanted a stereo he should have bought a car with one in... E-manage unpacked. everything is sitting on the counter. knowing my pace when I put stuff like this on I'll still be at it tomorrow, so feel free to stop by.

Off to find the ECU pin outs.

1.1 bar is to much, but I did not think that the stock boost solenoid would let the car hurt itself.(that's what it has always read, even before the boost controller) Doesn't matter, I re-ran the line to the gauge last night, and played with the car more. the boost controller spikes uncontrollably no matter what the settings are. If I think about stepping on the gas I have .9~1 bar. If I shut the boost controller off, and try to run wastegate pressure(I think by shutting the controller off it should default to wastegate pressure) It still spikes to 1 bar, and would go higher if I don't let off the gas. also seems to spike when I shift.

Tried stock settings. Tried new-bie settings from 3si. Tried everything in between.

Is start boost (when the wastegate starts to open) suppose to be higher or lower than the boost setting. The instruction manual has two very contradictory sentences in it, and I'm a tad confused on that point.

I will run equal lenght vacuum lines today while playing with e-manage, and put the controller in the glove box, which should eliminate some of the line, and help reduce the spiking.


Greg, my niece's birthday party is scheduled for next Saturday. And seeing as I'm the God-father it will be frowned upon if I am not there. Can we re-schedule? I'd really hate to blow her off on her first birthday.

_________________
Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!