Ok, I got that straightened out. Last thing I think...Is there any need to adjust the cas when swaping the engine, or should it be allright?

You should check the timing with a timing light when you get the motor together.

well, its all back together and running so so. I was going to take it out to have the hole in the exhaust looked at and it didnt quite make it that far... Bret was driving it and from what he says it seemed to keep stalling out and he babied it to our friends house a couple of miles away. We went to pick it up and it dosnt want to go into gear...reverse or forward. It just revs up like it is in neutral. It has enough tranny fluid. Is there any way I could have not gotten the half shafts seated right? Im fairly positive that they are both in all the way. Any other ideas?

Pull one of the hoses off that goes to the tranny cooler (bottom of the radiator) and see if any fluild comes out when you put it into gear. If nothing comes out, then that means the pump inside the tranny isn't working.

Did you tear into the valve body at all (to replace the filter)?

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06 Blue EVO 9

No, I havnt done anything with the tranny. According to the guy I got the car from it was rebuilt about 7k miles ago. Ill try pulling one of thoes hoses off tomorrow.

So I went out to check that hose...Start it up, put it in neutral and check the tranny fluid...seems fine. So then I pull one of the hoses going to the tranny cooler and a couple of drips of fluid comes out, along with a bunch of air. I hook the line back up and re-check the fluid level, and now its low. So I add a couple of qts. to bring it back up to the right level and recheck the pump...now its working. So I get in and put it in gear and guess what?? It goes into gear and starts moving. So anyways it looks like that problem is taken care of. Hopfuly I didnt damage the tranny to much durring the bit that I drove it low on fluid. Any idea why it wasnt low untill I poped that hose off? It almost seems like it was vaporlocked or somthing but it dosnt seem like it would be with a pump pumping it through...

On to the next problem. It runs, but is pretty rough...definatly not hitting on all cylinders. Where should I start besides plugs and wires? I havnt been able to find anyone with a light to check the cam sensor yet either...

Thanks.

Start by pulling the plug wires off the ignition coils (with the motor running) one at a time. When you pull the wire, check for spark going to it, then move it far enough away so the spark doesn't jump to the wire.

Listen to the sound of the engine. You should hear it change (it'll run rougher). If you hear that change, put the wire back in and see if the motor runs better.

Repeat that for all 6 wires.

If you pull a wire and find the motor doesn't change, then you know which cylender is the problem.

If they all make a difference, then you know it's not an issue with an individual cylender and is probably something like the timing being way off, bad gas...

I'll walk you thru step by step.

awsome. I wont be able to work on it again untill next weekend, but ill let you know what i come up with.

couple of quick questions in the mean time that I have spent the last hour or so searching for...

Is it true that if I have a laptop I can download datta logging software for free, then just buy the cable??
A guy at autozone told me that the checkengine codes on my car are the old turnkey style that you dont need to scan, but I couldnt get it to work...Is this true? and if not can data loggers check the check engine codes? Are there any dataloggers that I should stay away from/ any specific ones I should look into? Any one have one they want to get rid of?

Sorry for the list of questions.....Thanks.

well, there is a noticable difference when i pull the wires off from the back 3 cylinders. there is a little delay when you pull the front right wire off (while looking at yt before I noticed a difference, and there is no difference when you pull the other front two off. Well i had the plugs off i checked the compression, just under 120 fro each of the front three. I put new plugs in the front, no difference. I think I might pull the wires off from bretts ls to see if that makes a diff. Prolly pull the plugs and see if they are wet. I dont know what else it could be besides fuel...

one thing I dont think I mentioned...I dont think it will make a difference in only thoes two cylinders, but I have a slight exhaust leake before the O2 sensor.

120 is very low compression. That's your problem. Check the compression in the rear cylenders.

Guy at autozone is smoking crack.

I didnt know 120 was low...I guess im used to four wheelers and dirtbikes. Well any ways I conluded that I wasnt getting any fuel to the front three cylinders...Threw a different fuel rail and injectors on it helped out a ton, night and day difference. It seems to be running pretty good now, pulls steady, no power loss any where or anything like that. Do you think I should still pull the back plugs out and check the compression? I drove it around quite a bit tonight and the only issue I had is that it dosnt want to shift out of third. It shifts up to third fine, but gets to third and acts like that is all there is....

Hey Gabe, its Matt.

Ya 120 definately is pretty low. I cant think of anything besides timing, which I watched.

I thought the NA's were supposed to be like 170+, that would mean your more than 1 tooth off and therefore it wouldnt run or would barely run. Are you using a decent gauge?

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Matt
92 VR4

I think its a pretty good guage. The only other thing I have personaly used it on is dirtbikes though, so I cant be completely positive. I guess I could pull one of brets front plugs out tomorrow and see what kind of reading I get from that.