YUP, it's got oil, I can see it on the driveway,---leaking banjo bolts. A drop a day or so, I'm working on that too. Lucky for me I work near Renner and they have been pretty good on prices. Only boost guage I have is the factory---and I can pin that at 14. If the compression test looks good I'ld be willing to up the injectors and put the SAFC back in. Of course I'll need some tuners help to dial it in. At some point I will make the offer---HAVE BEER WILL TRAVEL...for help.
Mike

no, check the oil for gas in it. not if your car has oil in it. gas in the oil will destroy the bearings. if your running that rich the gas will seep past the piston rings and contaminate the oil. under boost it doesn't take long.

You also have no idea what boost your running. even with the stock gauge (which doesn't read boost. It's definitly not accurate enough to set a MBC by.) you don't know how much boost your running because you set it past the gauges ability to read. that can and will cost you your engine if your not careful. ESPECIALLY with aftermarket turbos and stock injectors. your SJ safety factor (new term I have just coined) has just dropped into the negatives.

I'd either not boost the car, or hook the y-pipe line directly to the wastegates for the time being until I got a boost gauge.

And people accuse me of having a fairly cavalier attitude towards my engine.

Your car is a time bomb right now. just waiting.

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Running wastegate pressure will still make the car run rich. The best solution is to rehook up the stock boost control sollinoid as per the diagram under the hood.

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06 Blue EVO 9

provided that the stock boost soleniod still works, or is even there.

I would rather run rich than frag the motor at xx.x psi boost.

Plus completely stock the MAS will still read completely correct and should inject less fuel... which reminds me, if you pull the s-AFC off, perhaps you want to go back and double check all the connections that you re-did. perhaps one or some of them aren't done 100% and that is causing the rich condition.

best solution is probably get a logger and a boost gauge, see what your car is comfortable running, and go from there. You need a boost gauge badly though...

EDIT:
I'll offer my garage on a nice day, plus a free pressure test, but I'm in green bay and that's a bit of a haul... but the offer stands.

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Hey guys,
Sorry I ducked out for a while ---I didn't know that today was the day I really, really wanted to go to Home Depot and get a new toilet and faucet for the bathroom and install it....Thank God my wife keeps me focused.
So I checked on the "wastegate solinoid" and that is there. From the bottom fitting is a line with a T-fitting. One line going to the manual boost control and the line off of that to the Y-pipe. Should I turn down the manual boost control for now? Should I disconnect the line to the manual boost and hook it to the one off the Y-pipe??
Oh and TTANGEL sorry about the "YUP-there is oil" thing. I did go sniff the oil and it seems OK. I couldn't resist the confirmation of oil in the car as I can see in on the driveway.

I would get a cheap autometer boost gauge, and hook it up. they are around 40 bucks.

It's WAY WAY better than using the stock gauge. THe stock gauge reads the airflow through the MAS and tries to calculate boost. on a stock car it reads some-what accurate from vacuum to about 3 or 4 psi. after that it's anyones guess.

Even if you just run the vacuum line through the firewall, and drop the gauge in the glove box, and only use it for setting the boost controller, and checking it every now and again.

I am personally not a fan of manual boost controllers because of the fact that they will drift as the weather gets hotter or colder. which is why you need a boost gauge. (or you could pick up a electronic boost controller like the greddy profec-b spec 2 which will have a gauge on the controller. that's a relatively cheap electric that works well. about 200 bucks.)

your choice really.

grab some DSM injectors and we'll get you tuned up, if that's the way you want to roll.

Adam

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Adam, how will upgraded injectors solve his issue with running rich? For all we know, the issue here could just be a massive boost leak or a bad injector.

Also, running a stock car at 6psi does make it run rich. I can prove it with a log from my car.

Greg,

He said he wanted to put in DSM injectors, and re-hook up the fuel controller.

if an injector is stuck open, replacing them all will fix it. also, if he heads up by me, we can check for boost leaks. I have a pressure tester. If he has, say, a hole in his intercooler we can weld it up.

or if he goes somewhere else. I'm really not that partial. I have my own stuff to fix, I was just offer a hand. P.S. 346, don't let SJ mess with your vacuum lines.

and like previously stated, I'd rather run rich at 6 psi than dangerously lean at 15 psi... or more because we don't really know! hell, truth be told, perhaps the MBC isn't set at all, and it is running wastegate pressure, which could be where his rich condition is coming from. we don't know until we dig into it a bit deeper.

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...another reason to hook up the stock boost sollinoid. It's free, and you don't need a boost gauge.

Actually, going back to the issue at hand. I'm fairly positive excessive Hydrocarbons can be because of burning oil too. Not just gas. Come to think of it, it would make more sence if that's the case because I highly doubt you'd be running rich with the stock feul system and 13gs.

If this is the case and the motor has 113,000 miles, we could be looking at a bad PCV valve, worn valvestem seals/head gasket, or worst case, worn piston rings. Maybe a new mitsu PCV valve and a compression test should be done in the near future as well as an intake leak test. All of these are cheep and will help you narrow the down the issue.

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06 Blue EVO 9

I dunno. a ten year old soleniod... that was left unplugged in a hot engine bay. I'd still personally say you need a boost gauge, and that will tell you a) what your running now. b) once you hook up the soleniod if its' working. c) if it failed, in what position it failed in, open or shut. (but maybe I'm just going off on a boost gauge tangent.)

burning oil... definitely a possibility. any smoke out the tail pipe? blue? black? white? rainbow?

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A failed BCS isn't as common as you'd think. Usually when they fail, it's because of oil vapor contamination, moisture, or someone futzing with it.

At any rate, I don't disagree that if he wants to run an aftermarket boost controler, he needs a boost gauge, but that's not the issue here.

Hey guys,
Looks like you were busy while I was at work. I just did a compression test on the front bank with these results..Cyl 5 @ 160lbs, Cyl 3@ 160 lbs, and Cyl 1 @ 150 lbs. All plugs show carbon at the bottom of the threads.

There is some oil burning... on start up. I'm actually blowing carbon out the tail pipe and onto what ever is parked behind me at the time. The exhaust tips are black with soot.

If anyone is interested I would take $5,000 now as it sits. I'm going to Las Vegas on Monday and if I have a commitment on this car I would look at a VR4 Spyder there... Just tossing that out.

Otherwise when I get back I think what I need is to let one of you guys take a look at it and go from there...

I'll be checking back later--got to burn some Brats.
Mike

Is this with a warm or cold motor? Do you know how to do a leakdown test? This will tell us how the oil is getting into that cylender.

Test was done about an hour after I drove it home from work. I've read about the Leak Down test--haven't done one. I would need some help on how to get the cylinders to TDC on compression stroke.
Thanks,
Mike

That's easy. Have a long extention? Just drop it into the sparkplug hole and turn the crank by hand. You should see it move up and down.

Acutally, since it's cylender #1, you don't even need to do that. Just line up the timing marks (on the cams), and you're all set.