Author |
Message |
MRink
|
Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 9:28 am |
|
Joined: Sun Oct 03, 2004 2:08 pm Posts: 521 Location: Wind Lake, WI
|
ttangel wrote: Amsoil is junk? Not "junk" ... "the junk". Which I think is praise? My eric-to-english translator is broken at the moment.... ![Razz :P](./images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)
_________________ "Well-weathered leather, hot metal and oil, the scented country air,
Sunlight on chrome, the blur of the landscape, every nerve aware..."
meastie beastie
|
|
Top |
|
![](images/spacer.gif) |
My94r/t
|
Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 11:59 pm |
|
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 12:04 am Posts: 1237 Location: Milwaukee, WI
|
MRink wrote: ttangel wrote: Amsoil is junk? Not "junk" ... "the junk". Which I think is praise? My eric-to-english translator is broken at the moment.... ![Razz :P](./images/smilies/icon_razz.gif) 'the junk' is much like 'the bomb', meaning that its on top of the food chain, so-to-speak.
_________________ ~Joe - aka spider gear destroyer
'94 Stealth R/T
-Lightly Modded ![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif) ;)
|
|
Top |
|
![](images/spacer.gif) |
unclebenny
|
Posted: Sat Apr 22, 2006 12:31 pm |
|
Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2003 3:27 am Posts: 934 Location: Oconomowoc WI
|
Yes, Amsoil and Le Royal w/ purple cheese are among the best quality (although expensive) synthetic oils you can buy.
_________________ ![Image](http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/unclebenny4140/sig.jpg)
|
|
Top |
|
![](images/spacer.gif) |
G-ELL
|
Posted: Sun May 07, 2006 10:34 pm |
|
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 1:18 am Posts: 3153 Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
|
|
Top |
|
![](images/spacer.gif) |
ttangel
|
Posted: Mon May 08, 2006 8:02 am |
|
Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 2:25 pm Posts: 2502 Location: Green Bay
|
^^ nice read.
I run 15w50.
The reason being as oil heats up it thins out. Race engines heat up. Our engine is much more comparable to a race engine than a normal econo-car engine.
think about it...
In most types of racing they take a base engine, and run it harder than normal. Give it better cams, and try and get more air and fuel in. perhaps replace the guts with forged stuff, and maybe bore the block a bit.
our engine is one of mitsu's flagship engines. it's in everything from minivans, to forklifts, to econocars.
So, in mitsu's line of thinking, we are the "race version."
As is stated in bunk's thread, our engines get seriously hot. not to mention, most of them are pushing over 80k. bearing tolerances get bigger as mileage goes up.
I run synthetic because it holds up better at extreme temps, and it prevents coking(sp?) at the turbo bearings...
plus, whenever my father ran less than 15w50 in his race engines, he blew them up shortly after... and he's blow more than his fair share of engines, so I have to make up for it...
adam
_________________ Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!
|
|
Top |
|
![](images/spacer.gif) |
G-ELL
|
Posted: Wed Jun 14, 2006 10:13 pm |
|
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 1:18 am Posts: 3153 Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
|
How much boost can i safely run?
You'll see people asking this question all the time, then adding their mod list. Then, you'll always see someone spatting off random psi numbers that they either experienced themselves, or read/heard from someone else.
The honest truth is, no one can tell you exactly how much psi you can run thru your motor without damaging it. NO ONE. No one knows how healthy your motor is. No one knows the condition of your feul system. No one knows how much carbon build up there is on your pistons/in the cumbustion chamber of your motor. No one knows if your timing is set properly...
Get my point?
So how much can you safely run? Get a datalogger, monitor knock, and find out. Run as much as you can without knock. Wait!... You don't have a logger? Then why are you modifying your car???
Every car is different. I was able to run 19psi on 93 oct gas in my grey car with almost no knock. We have a TT here with 16T's and an AEM running 24psi on pump gas and NO KNOCK! My new car can only run 13psi on pump with no knock. I've seen completely stock cars in such rough shape, they can't even run 10psi... That's right, they knock at stock boost.
What is knock?
Quite simply, knock is bad. Knock is ignition happening when it shouldn't. Meaning, things are igniting without the spark plug. This is very bad for a motor because as the piston is comming up in its cycle, knock is trying to force it back down. This leads to holes in pistons, spun bearings, or even bent rods.
What causes knock?
There's only 1 thing that causes knock: Temps are too hot in the combustion chamber. Things that cause that are:
Spark plug firing too soon in the combustion cycle (too much timing). Too hot of air entering the motor (too much boost, too small of an innercooler...) Too quick burning fuel (too low octane feul) Too lean a/f ratio (not enough feul entering the motor) Too much carbon build up in the combustion chamber
What is false knock?
The knock sensor is just a microphone attached to the top of the shortblock to "listen" to sounds. It's programmed to filter out the normal sound of cumbustion and listen for that different pitch noise knock sounds like.
False knock is simply sounds that the microphone pick up that really isn't knock, but something else clanking around or ticking.
What causes false knock?
I can't possibly list every possible thing that causes false knock but some of the most common things are:
Worn motor mounts Worn carrier bearings in the driveshaft Holes in the exhaust Lifter tick/rod knock Old knock sensor Wheel hop Running over pot holes with a severly worn suspension Electrical noise Dirty/worn out feul injectors excetra... excetra...
|
|
Top |
|
![](images/spacer.gif) |
ttangel
|
Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 7:22 am |
|
Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 2:25 pm Posts: 2502 Location: Green Bay
|
Also, you can't determine how much boost your running from the stock boost gauge, as it doesn't actually measure boost. It is a guess-ta-mit that the ECU does using the MAS, the load, and air temp. To actually know how much boost you are running you need to get an aftermarket boost gauge and splice it into the vacuum lines.
_________________ Bad decisions make good stories.
Look at it! LOOK AT MY @SS AND TELL ME IT'S PRETTY!
|
|
Top |
|
![](images/spacer.gif) |
G-ELL
|
Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 4:06 pm |
|
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 1:18 am Posts: 3153 Location: Lehigh Valley, PA
|
Gas Mileage
I don't see any reason why a stock car (NA or TT) can't get at least 400 miles out of a tank (mixed highway/in town cruising without accellerating too hard) of gas. Gas mileage ultimately comes from engine load, a/f mixture, & your right foot.
Somethings that cause poor gas mileage:
Thermostat stuck open (ECU never gets out of "warm up mode") Dead/Dying O2 sensors (can see this with a logger or blinky gauge) Too low of tire pressure (I run at least 38 psi, but never go over the psi rating of your tires) Cruising in too high a gear (keeping the motor under a greater load than needed) Dirty air filter (NA's ONLY, makes NO difference on a TT car) Faulty feul pressure regulator Faulty MAS
Some modifications that can help improve gas milage:
Any mod that removes weight wether it's overall weight, or rotational weight. Things like: Light weight rims CFDS excetra
Any mod that allows control of the a/f mixture. (Don't be stupid and lean out the mixture too much though) Yes, you can add an SAFC or whatever to a completely stock car and use it to improve mileage.
Any mod that frees up restriction in the exhaust or intake. Things like: gutting the pre-cats & hard intake pipes...
That's about it...
A lot of guys are under the impression that EGR blockoff plates help gas mileage. The truth is, it does just the opposite. This is because the motor is getting more fresh air than it was before and now needs more fuel to burn it.
A lot of guys also like to assume that a K&N improves gas mileage because it's less restrictive. While this is true for the NA's, it honestly makes no difference on TTs. cbatters on 3si proved this by duct taping his entire cone filter except a small 2" hole and noticed no difference in mileage. The ECU only throws in as much feul as the MAS counts and the turbos can suck air a lot easier than the motor by itself reguardless of the larger restriction.
|
|
Top |
|
![](images/spacer.gif) |
Master_d
|
Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 3:59 pm |
|
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 5:07 am Posts: 94 Location: Milwaukee
|
all you guys are runnin 15W50 now? when did this happen? How about a BPU VR4 runnin 10W30 in the summer. Is it too thin for a car that is close to stock? Also did any of you who have had leaky valve stem seals notice no oil burnoff after switching to 15W50?
sorry for all the questions.... Ive been outta the loop for a while
_________________ rob r.
|
|
Top |
|
![](images/spacer.gif) |
ccrunner84
|
Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 5:52 pm |
|
Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2005 7:24 pm Posts: 285
|
Master_d wrote: all you guys are runnin 15W50 now? when did this happen? How about a BPU VR4 runnin 10W30 in the summer. Is it too thin for a car that is close to stock? Also did any of you who have had leaky valve stem seals notice no oil burnoff after switching to 15W50?
sorry for all the questions.... Ive been outta the loop for a while I usually run atleast 10W-40, many are running 20W-50 though. It can cover up bad stem seals somewhat aswell.
_________________ 1991 Stealth RT/TT
|
|
Top |
|
![](images/spacer.gif) |